Cookery Elisabeth Luard
BELGIUM
The culinary traditions of little Belgium are rich, plain and more than happy to raid the neighbours’ store cupboards, particularly France and Germany.
Belgians grow much of their own veg, brew monastic beer, shop daily, discuss all three meals enthusiastically, enjoy a steak-haché chevaline and take their moules with double frites, the national snack sold from café windows in a paper cone with plenty of salt.
For some 250 classic recipes, look no further than Ruth Van Waerebeek’s A Taste of Belgium (Grub Street £25, first published 1996). The author is a native of the chocolate-loving city of Ghent but comes from a line of honest country cooks – mother, granny and great-gran – and her photographer, Regula Ysewijn, aka food-blogger Miss Foodwise, is from the spice-importing port of Antwerp.
New peas with purslane Purslane, a medieval salad-herb grown in monastery gardens, has an okra-like texture when cooked and a refreshing sharpness of flavour that goes well with the sweetness of new peas. Substitute
4 tbsp unsalted butter 3 scallions or large spring onions, chopped with their leaves 75g purslane leaves, rinsed 1.5k fresh peas in pod, shelled and rinsed 375ml chicken stock Pinch sugar Salt and pepper
Melt half the butter gently in a roomy pan. Add the onion and purslane leaves and stir over the heat for 2–3 minutes. Add the peas and chicken broth, bubble up, turn down the heat and simmer gently till the peas are tender – about 10 minutes. For a vegetarian main course, replace the chicken broth with water and a glass of white wine, and serve with new potatoes for mashing into the buttery juices.
Belgian chocolate mousse Everyone should have this simple recipe in their repertoire, says Ruth. All you need is a balloon whisk and high-quality dark chocolate, preferably Belgian Callebaut, though Swiss Lindt or French Valrhona will do. To keep your cooking chocolate perfectly fresh, freeze it, and don’t worry if it develops a whitish film. Serves 4
150g bittersweet chocolate, chopped 4 tbsp brewed coffee or water 4 large egg whites, at room temperature 2 tbsp icing sugar 4 tbsp whipping cream, whipped Splash of dark rum or brandy (optional) To finish: chocolate shavings or more whipped cream
Melt the chocolate with the coffee or water in the top of a double boiler set over, but not touching, simmering water. Stir occasionally with a wooden spoon until melted. Remove from the heat and leave to cool slightly.
Beat the egg whites till they hold soft peaks, then gently fold in the sugar and continue to beat till the mixture is (just) stiff. Use a spatula to fold in the melted chocolate in three additions. Then fold in the whipped cream and optional alcohol. Spoon the mousse into four champagne flutes, wine-glasses, coffee cups or ramekins. Cover with clingfilm and refrigerate for a few hours to let the mousse stiffen up. Finish with chocolate shavings or a dollop of whipped cream.
Ruth’s grandmother likes to layer hers like a trifle, over a bed of sponge cake soaked in orange juice and a drop of Grand Marnier, topped with a few raspberries or strawberries or orange segments – deliciously summery.
The Oldie