Cookery

BUTTER UP THAT BIRD

‘The great winter feast of the Christian faith, falling as it does at the same season as the more ancient festival of the Birthday of the Sun, reminds us that, from the time of the winter solstice onwards, a new light shines and a fresh hope has dawned on a dark world.’

Writing in the immediate aftermath of the First World War, Agnes Jekyll, sister-in-law of gardening Gertrude, provided readers of the Times with wit, wisdom, no-nonsense culinary advice and reminders of who they were and where they came from. In a compendium of her collected articles published in 1923, Kitchen Essays: with Recipes and Their Occasions, she provided ‘information of practical use in kitchens when homes have dissolved and reformed, or the main prop of a household is withdrawn’.

Advice on choice of festive bird on the first Christmas after cessation of hostilities was a return to the traditional turkey. Accompaniments to include – no shirking – an abundance of bread sauce and gravy, braised chestnuts (good stock essential); midget sausages (pace the thought police); curls of bacon (tiny and crisp); browned or new potatoes (bottled by the prudent); grilled mushrooms (from the potting shed); and stuffing balls – so much more sensible than shoving the stuff inside and messing up the cooking times. Finally and fortunately, her ladyship concludes, Christmas comes but once a year. My thoughts exactly, and possibly yours.

Butter-roasted turkey

No recipe is provided for the festive bird – Lady J leaves the messy stuff to the kitchen staff. Certain rules, however, apply. Remember to remove the bird from the fridge (thoroughly defrosted if frozen) at least an hour ahead to bring it up to room temperature. The bigger the bird, the longer this takes.

Check the cavity for giblets (easy to overlook) and save them to make stock for gravy. Pat the bird dry inside and out. Salt and pepper vigorously, and tuck a quartered onion, bay leaves and a chopped-up lemon in the cavity. Cover the bird with lavish amounts of butter, paying particular attention to the breast.

Preheat the oven to 400F/200c/gas 6. Place the bird breast-side down on the butter-paper in a roasting tin. Roast at high heat for the first half hour, reducing to 350F/180c/gas 4 thereafter. As a rough rule of thumb, a 5.5lb turkey will take 1½ hours, a 10lb bird will take 2½, and a 20-pounder will take 3½ – anything larger and you’re on your own. Turn the bird breast-side up for the final half an hour to crisp and brown the skin. Baste with the buttery juices regularly. No need for foil (if you must, allow an extra 40-60 minutes).

To test for doneness, poke a skewer into the thickest part of the thigh – it’s ready when the juices run clear. Leave to rest in a warm place for at least 20 minutes before carving.

Lady Jekyll’s turkey réchauffé

Butter a stewpan, add cooked rice and a little stock, put in the oven and cook gently with the lid on till a golden colour. Put it in a charlotte mould with centre space filled in with turkey or chicken or game remains, pulled into pieces and warmed in a nice béchamel, adding mushrooms if possible. Cover in the mould with more rice and keep in the oven till dishing up. The rice should be rather dry, brittle and brown outside, retaining a soft and creamy mixture within.