Cookery Elisabeth Luard

HAVE SOME MADEIRA, M’DEAR

In anticipation, this merry March, that we’ll once again be an island nation, consider the island of Madeira. Uninhabited until six centuries ago this year, the largest of a string of volcanic peaks, 500 miles off the coast of north Africa, was settled by Portuguese sailors.

Forest cover, cut back to allow the planting of European crops, including wheat for bread and grapes for wine, is endemic bay-tree forest. Early contact with the New World added yam, maize, sweet potato, pumpkin and chilli.

These days, fishermen land mackerel, bonito, tuna (exported to Japan) and a black-skinned, eel-like scabbard fish popular for soup.

The islanders have achieved an enviable degree of autonomy since the fall of the Salazar dictatorship. Come the revolution (or disaffection with mainland politicians), the islanders might choose to pull up the drawbridge and return to idyllic self-sufficiency. Just saying.

Chicharros com molho de papaya e açafrao

Mackerel, chicharro, is plentiful in island waters. In spring, the fish has enough subcutaneous fat to crisp into the cornmeal jacket. Cut the richness with a papaya and saffron molho (Portuguese for salsa) and serve with bolos de caco, traditional flatbreads eaten hot from the griddle. Serves 4

4 fine fat mackerel Salt 4 tbsp medium-ground cornmeal Butter or olive oil (or mixture) for frying Molho (salsa) 1 mild onion, chopped 1 mild red pepper, de-seeded and diced 1 green chilli, de-seeded and diced 2-3 tbsp wine vinegar 6 tbsp olive oil ½ tsp saffron threads 3-4 tbsp diced green papaya or crisp apple

Rinse the mackerel, leaving them a little damp. Salt them on both sides, not forgetting the belly cavity. Spread the cornmeal on a plate and flip the fish through the coating, making sure all sides are well-dusted.

Heat a little oil in a heavy frying pan and fry the fish gently, turning once, till firm – 4-6 minutes a side, depending on the fatness of the fish.

Meanwhile, make the salsa. Combine the chopped onion and pepper with the vinegar and a little salt in a small bowl and leave to marinate for the time it takes to cook the fish. Toast the saffron threads in a dry pan till they darken a little – don’t let them burn. Crush and add to the sauce. Fork in the olive oil and add the grapes.

Bolo do caco

Yeast-raised potato flatbreads eaten hot from the caco, bakestone, are delicious when split and spread with garlic butter. To prepare eight bolos, combine 450g bread flour with a teaspoon of salt, 7g dried yeast, 100g freshly cooked mashed potato and enough warm water – about 200ml – to make a soft dough. Knead patiently for about 10 minutes. Drop the dough into an oiled bowl, cover with clingfilm and leave in a warm place for an hour or so to double in size. Divide the mixture into eight pieces and shape into rounds about the size of your hand. Cover again and leave to rise for 30 minutes. Heat a griddle or heavy frying pan and cook the breads for 8-10 minutes each side until browned and cooked through.