Kitchen Garden Simon Courtauld

AUBERGINES

Originally from Asia, aubergines supposedly journeyed westward in the saddlebags of oriental spice traders. They were regarded with deep suspicion when first imported into England in the 13th century; as it is a member of the solanum family, its flowers and leaves look similar to deadly nightshade. (Tomatoes and potatoes are also of the solanum genus, but they did not reach England until the conquistadors had brought them back from South America.)

The aubergine had more success in Spain when introduced by the Moors; it was thought to be an aphrodisiac and known as the apple of love. In this country, we look upon aubergines less romantically, but they have grown in popularity in recent decades. They are best grown in a greenhouse, in pots or grow-bags. The seeds can be sown

this month, but may take at least two weeks to germinate. I favour the more reliable, if lazy, option, which is to buy ‘plantlets’ in April. Simpson’s Seeds, near Warminster, will supply plug plants of varieties such as Kaberi and Bonica, which have deep purple, oval fruit.

To deter red spider mite, the aubergine’s main insect pest, the plants should be mist-sprayed with water when in flower; this will also help the fruit to set. With four or five fruits on a plant, it is advisable to remove the rest of the flowers and pinch out all the sideshoots. The aubergines should be picked while the skins are shiny; if the skin turns dull, the flesh may develop a bitter taste.

Not all varieties are purple. The more spherical aubergines may be pale mauve with white streaks, or small and white, hence the alternative name of eggplant.

However, all have much the same flavour and are suitable for making the delicious dish called imam bayildi, named after a Turkish imam who, according to which story you believe, either fainted from pleasure having inhaled the aromas of the dish prepared by his wife, or passed out when she told him the quantity and cost of the special olive oil she used.