Kitchen Garden

Simon Courtauld

When I was young and impressionable, I liked to imagine that the shallots in our kitchen had been brought to this country, rather as onions were by Breton onionsellers on bicycles, by the Lady (or ladies) of Shalott. I only learned later of the difference in spelling and the Arthurian legend in Tennyson’s poem and, later still, that shallots were introduced into England by the Crusaders returning from Palestine.

Shallots can be grown from seed – the seed catalogues tell you this is easy – but it is easier to start from sets (immature bulbs) which grow more quickly and are less susceptible to pests. The bulbs should be planted now, at least six inches apart, and buried so that the tips are just showing above ground.

The sets may need to be covered with fleece in spring to stop birds or

squirrels interfering with them. If you can avoid that problem, and the onion fly, which is the curse of the allium family, the shallots should be ready for lifting in July or August, when the foliage turns yellow. Having dug up the clusters of shallot bulbs, and dried and separated them, you can hang them in onion bags or store them on racks in a cool shed. I have had more success in keeping shallots in good condition than garlic. The important thing is to dry the bulbs thoroughly, if possible in the sun; healthy-looking small bulbs can be kept for planting next year.

I have never grown onions and am not inclined to try. They, more than shallots, are prone to white rot and a mildew fungus, as well as onion fly. And bought onions will probably have better keeping qualities. I know that some consider that no kitchen garden should be without three staple vegetables – potatoes, runner beans and onions. But I would rather stick to shallots, which are not only less trouble but have a more subtle, often sweeter taste, and are less indigestible than onions. This spring I am planting Zebrune, a variety of long ‘banana’ shallot, pale purple under the skin.