Kitchen Garden

HORSERADISH

The horseradish which grows on roadside verges may have been originally planted close to coaching inns as long ago as the 17th century, when weary travellers were revived with horseradish ale, mentioned by Pepys in his diary.

The mature roots go so deep into the ground that they cannot be dug up without breaking off a few inches below the surface.

This is not to deter anyone from planting horseradish in the garden, but as a warning that, like mint, once the roots are established you may never get rid of them. Bare roots, known as thongs, are available from seed companies such as Marshalls and Unwins, for planting now in an area of ground that will not be needed for other plants in the foreseeable future. They should be pushed into

the ground about 12 inches apart, at an angle and with the top of the root just covered by soil. The alternative is to plant roots in a pot or a raised bed. The horseradish can then be pulled or dug up towards the end of October, when the leaves turn brown and die back. If not grating and using it to make a sauce when the roots are fresh, one is advised to store them in damp sand. But I prefer to clean and peel the roots before freezing them. When thawed and grated, often months later, the horseradish will have lost none of its strong flavour.

For those who have access to the verges of country lanes, the other option is to go foraging with a spade in the autumn. The important thing is not to confuse the foliage of horseradish with similar-looking dock leaves.

As a country, we have come late to the delights of fresh horseradish. It has been popular since the Middle Ages in Germany and eastern Europe, and it was German immigrants who took it to America at the end of the 18th century.

An international horseradish festival is held every year in Illinois. I wonder whether we will ever have one in England.