Kitchen Garden

Simon Courtauld

It has been a good year for figs, or so friends with fig trees tell me. We have a fine fig tree, brought here when we moved house nearly 15 years ago. It has since grown impressively in height and breadth and each year sports some wonderfully lush foliage with large leaves. But in only one year have we been able to pick a few ripe fruit.

The principal problem this year, in spite of plenty of sun in May, was a vicious frost over two nights, which in effect destroyed the fruit.

Plenty of new fruit have grown, but they were still green and small at the end of August. However, I think the real and continuing problem is that the tree is free-standing and its roots are not restricted, thus encouraging foliage at the expense of fruit.

The best advice is to grow a

fig tree, fan-trained, against a southfacing wall or fence, and restrict root growth by lining the hole in which the tree is planted with slabs or bricks. Alternatively, plant the fig tree in a tub or container and sink it into the ground. I have been told that the drum of an old washing machine is ideal for this.

Once the leaves have fallen, the base of the tree should be packed with straw or bubble wrap for the winter. Old branches may be removed but pruning is not necessary. If grown in containers on a garden terrace, figs should be overwintered in a frost-free place.

There is a difference of opinion over what to do with the fruit that have not ripened at the end of the season. Some gardeners tell you to remove the larger fruits but leave the little embryo green figs to ripen the following year.

However, a friend who grows a successful crop every year removes all the unripe fruit in the autumn.

I am ever hopeful for our fig tree next year, but we may end up merely admiring the palmate leaves and agreeing that Adam made an excellent choice.