Hogmanay hideouts
Hate New Year’s Eve? Head for an island, says SARA WHEELER
Mull
I’ve been to three Scottish islands this year and recommend them all for crisp Hogmanay breaks. First, Mull, second largest of the Inner Hebrides. I travelled round on double-decker public buses, which are wellventilated, seldom busy and offer splendid views from the top deck. They turn off the main road to visit hamlets – so you get a good look round Mull. Most buses begin and end their journey in the capital, Tobermory – buy lunch at the splendid Tobermory Bakery on the front. Have a walk around the public garden and grounds of the Glengorm Castle estate in the far north – the pile, built in 1860, looks out onto the Atlantic and the Outer Hebrides, and there won’t be anyone else there. Mull has many cottages for hire.
booking.com
Iona
I took one of the buses to Fionnphort and, from there, hopped onto the passenger ferry to Iona (private cars are not allowed on the island). Most visitors go for the day, but I recommend staying for at least one night for walks across sweeping, salty beaches where, again, there was no one. Go to evensong in the abbey as the sun sinks into a furrowed strait. It’s free, but you had to book online when I was there ( iona.org.uk). The St Columba Hotel is next to the Abbey and Reilig Òdhrain burial ground.
www.stcolumba-hotel.co.uk
Skye
The Caledonian Sleeper from Euston to Glasgow Central is the way to go to Skye. The train takes dogs, but they need their own hound ticket ( www.
sleeper.scot). In Glasgow, you change to Queen Street station and take one of the most glorious train journeys in the world up the west coast to Mallaig, where you catch the ferry to Skye. Armadale Castle, near the ferry terminal in the south-east, run a range of events and exhibitions. My disabled mum used one of the Armadale disability scooters to get around the gardens. Skye has a sophisticated food scene with two Michelin-starred establishments, but we had a fine Scottish meal at Red Skye, a cosy-boho restaurant in Breakish, specialising in seasonal, local fare. The Swordale House Bed and Breakfast in Broadford was a convenient and comfortable stay.
swordalehousebedandbreakfast.co.uk
Isle of Wight
I have a soft spot for the Isle of Wight. Last time I was there, I visited Quarr Abbey and took a book into the bindery for repair. It was my greatgrandfather’s small bible, carried in his tunic pocket all through the Second World War.
The Quarr monk-craftsmen did a splendid job and posted the bible back to me. Inquire in advance ( bindery@quarr.org).
If your budget is modest, you might consider an IOW Warner’s break. You will save on your New Year holiday if you wait till after the festivities – Warner has a three-day chalet package in Norton Grange Coastal Village, including dinner for £139 per person with entertainment – a murder-mystery weekend is scheduled for February.
warnerleisurehotels.co.uk
Anglesey
Ever thought of Anglesey? I had a lovely winter excursion there a few years ago. I love north-west Wales. You can get to the island via a bridge (as you can to Skye). Anglesey includes Holy Island and its Holyhead port, the largest settlement. Almost the whole coast (all of it facing the North Sea except at the Menai Strait, the location of the bridge) has been designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. The coastal path is reasonably accessible and other highlights range from the 13thcentury Beaumaris Castle, built by Edward I, to thriving bird colonies. The sea cliffs at South Stack provide nest sites for puffins, guillemots and peregrine falcons. Airbnb has availability on Anglesey for the New Year, including a boathouse in Rhosneigr with views of Crigyll beach which sleeps two – it is £224 a night.
airbnb.co.uk
Lindisfarne
Lindisfarne, freighted with history, is an ideal spot for toasting the future, preferably with Lindisfarne Mead.
It is also known as Holy Island, not to be confused with the one belonging to Anglesey. The National Trust owns the small, 16th-century castle.
Beware: at least one vehicle gets stranded on the causeway each month.
Hurry up if you want to go for New Year itself. Airbnb has only two options left; one is a shed that looks absolutely super.
airbnb.co.uk
Mersea
I like the idea of an island, like Lindisfarne, accessible only when the tide is right, as it offers the possibility of getting stranded and having an adventure. Oldies in this market might like the lesser-known Mersea between the estuaries of the Blackwater and Colne rivers, south of Colchester. It might be safer to stay nearby, in the gatehouse apartment of Tudor Tower – Layer Mareny.
www.airbnb.co.uk