THE SPIRIT OF ORKNEY

A REPORTER’S TOUR OF HIGHLAND PARK WHISKY DISTILLERY

My Highland Park Distillery tour began with a warm welcome from charismatic distillery ambassador Sergio Paolo, as I was ushered in from the howling hoolie of a gale outside, and into the warmth of an oaklined lobby.

Not so long ago, we enjoyed such tours and experiences without a care in the world — but even with social distancing and masks equipped, it was clear this would not obstruct my host’s passion for recounting the heritage surrounding one of Orkney’s most renowned products.

Entering the Film Room, I was met with a tasting of Highland Park Full Volume, which was sweet on the nose with a smooth, smoky and peaty finish. A short film guided me through the history of the brand, as I enjoyed my first dram of the experience, before venturing to our first stop of the tour — the malt floor, housed in a low-roofed and long-stretching building of stone. This is one of the five keystones of the distillery that have been unchanged since 1798.

Like a true storyteller, Sergio began his tale, unearthing the history of Highland Park. He told of Magnus Eunson, who operated the illegal distillery in the 18th century as a way of avoiding tax, selling whisky at markets and the docks. In 1798, however, the distillery was legally established — Highland Park was no longer an illicit still, and from its small beginnings, the brand went on to become one of the word’s best spirits.

Throughout the tour, I was taken through the whole meticulous process that simply cannot be expressed in full in these pages. This sensory experience started with holding handfuls of barley, leading through the blasting heat of the smoky kiln room where the second keystone of hand-cut peat is burned to infuse flavour — all the way to where alcohol is created at the fermentation process, and on.

One aspect of the tour that truly stood out was towards the end, where a smaller, stone structure stood. Inside held an air of ancient and patient tradition, where the only sound was the persistent wind from outside. A smell of oak hung here, in this, a cask warehouse.

Looking through a metal gate, an unending row of three-stacked-high wooden casks presented themselves, yawning far and wide into the distance.

This is where the new-make spirit is housed within oak wood casks, crafted by specialists from tropical trees in Southern Spain. These casks are another keystone of the process. They start their journey filled with a local sherry called Oloroso for a few years, before being emptied and shipped to Orkney. Here the spirit made thus far is poured into the casks, and the flavours within the cask infuse the whisky. Some special edition whiskies have been made with bourbon or port-soaked casks, rather than sherry.

“Investment in wood, from seeking it to filling it, is the biggest investment we make” said Sergio.

Other distilleries don’t start the process with sherry, but Highland Park do (this being their third keystone) and there are no colourants or artificiality involved whatsoever.

Over a minimum of ten years, the single malt scotch whisky-in-the-making hibernates in one of the county’s 23 warehouses, patiently maturing. This the fourth keystone, and by far the longest. Before the last stage of bottling, the whisky may spend up to six months in a neutral barrel to undergo the fifth and final keystone: the process of “harmonising.” With this intricate and lengthy process now complete, it is time for a dram of Highland Park in all its glory.

We left the cask warehouse, and cross the courtyard to the Eunson Tasting Room.

A homely room with a roaring fire awaits — an inviting prospect, contending with the roaring wind outside. It houses bookshelves of untapped spirit history, inviting leather sofas and armchairs, and of course, the main attraction — resting comfortably on a table by the fire are the finished articles: Highland Park 12-year-old, and 18-year-year-old.

Taking the bottle of 12-year-old and raising it admiringly, Sergio tells me proudly: “This is our passport whisky — our passport to the world.”

Sergio stresses the personality of whisky, before I dare to take a dram. He says: “You personalise the whisky. You bring yourself to the drink.”

He invites me to taste it however I wish, whether neat, with ice, water, or in a cocktail. He says: “We make it our way, so you can enjoy it your way.”

We raise a glass, and give a viking toast of “skål”. Sipping and swilling the amber nectar on the palette, smooth but smoky textures arrive on the tongue, followed by notes of honey, orange, and sweet oils.

The 18-year-old, a subtler but far deeper and richer liquid for this reporter, brought with it chocolate, caramel, and rich citrus. It’s no surprise the 18-year-old is twice a winner of “Best Spirit in the World”, from F Paul Pacult, the renowned independent spirits expert.

For someone like myself who is entirely new to whisky, and indeed for the connoisseurs, I say with confidence that I could not recommend this tour — The Honour and Pride Tour — enough. Just like a dram of Highland Park, it was a well-rounded, deep, and warm experience infused with passion, dedication, and — most of all, spirit.

Four tours are on offer, promising a range of tastings from different signature whiskies, a variety of experiences, and exclusive giveaways — such as single cask bottles, signed certificates, tasting glasses, and books on the distillery’s history.

Highland Park Distillery is an institution of Orkney, proudly supported by local people to this day, and still attracting droves of visitors from near and far. It is an absolute must-see attraction during any trip to these islands.

For more information visit www.highlandparkwhisky.com, or to book a tour email tours@highlandparkwhisky.com or call 01856 885640.