THE CENTRE OF ISLAND LIFE

A MODERN TOWN WITH A PAST WORTH EXPLORING

The capital of Orkney is the Royal Burgh of Kirkwall, a little town on the northern shore of the Orkney Mainland. Looking out across Kirkwall Bay towards the island of Shapinsay and the outer North Isles, Kirkwall sits almost exactly in the centre of the Mainland, neatly dividing it into the distinct areas known simply as the East and West Mainland.

Old Kirkwall was one of the most important towns of the Norse Western Empire.

Its first mention in the Orkneyinga Saga relates to the death of Rognvald Brusison, in 1045, and thereafter the town was destined to play a part in various historical scenarios.

King Hakon Hakonsson died in Kirkwall in 1263, and Magrete Eriksdottir (The Maid of Norway) was buried there in 1290.

In 1486, King James III decreed that Kirkwall be elevated to the status of Royal Burgh.

But until the early 1900s, Kirkwall was little more than one main street. The face of the town has changed and expanded, and continues to do so, with new homes and businesses continuing to appear.

That said, Kirkwall now has more to offer visitors and local folk during the day, than ever before.

The town’s skyline is dominated by the imposing St Magnus Cathedral, situated in the centre, just off Broad Street, and a must-see during everyone’s stay.

Construction began in 1137, for a “stone minster at Kirkwall more magnificent than any in Orkney”, where the revered remains of St Magnus, Orkney’s patron saint, would be interred.

Built from alternating bands of red and yellow sandstone, the cathedral gradually grew, and with it, the village at its feet. Upon its completion, three centuries or so after the first foundation stone was laid, it towered over Kirkwall.

St Magnus Cathedral is unique in that it actually belongs to the City and Royal Burgh of Kirkwall. It is not, and has never been, the property of the church.

Nestled in a corner, adjacent to the cathedral, are the Earl’s and Bishop’s Palaces.

The Bishop’s Palace, the older of the two, was built in the mid-12th century for Bishop William the Old, the friend and companion of Earl Rognvald Kolsson, the founder of the cathedral.

It consisted of a hall, used for entertaining, and a tower house that formed the Bishop’s private residence. The “Moosie Toor”, the strong round tower situated at the north-west corner of the palace, which was added much later, still stands today.

Construction of the neighbouring Earl’s Palace began in 1600, instigated by Earl Patrick Stewart. Using forced labour to quarry and ship in the stone required, Stewart planned to build a dwelling that was unrivalled in design, comfort and beauty.

The Earl’s Palace was finally completed in 1607, but shortly afterwards Patrick Stewart was arrested and work abandoned. After his execution in 1615, the portion of the Earl’s Palace already built became the residence of Orkney’s bishops.

It remains a two-storey building, with massive cellars, kitchen and a well on the ground floor. The great hall on the first floor was once said to have been one of the finest state rooms of any castle in Scotland.

From Orkney’s distant past, in modern times Kirkwall is a hive of activity, and a host of activities can tempt you during the day in the town. While COVID has certainly changed the way we do things, and visitors are asked to respect any guidelines in place when exploring, no trip to these shores would be complete without a saunter down Kirkwall’s award-winning high street. Today, Kirkwall is a thriving hub of social, commercial and creative activity that no visitor should miss.

The bustling high street of shops, cafés and pubs sits comfortably within the historic landscape and architecture of the town, with the main thoroughfare nestled beneath the striking sandstone steeple of St Magnus Cathedral.

To this day, its iconic silhouette is synonymous with the town and the islands. Eclectic artisan shops offer a multitude of unique gifts, including local produce, clothing and jewellery, sitting perfectly alongside health and beauty, and pharmacy stores, and cafés enticing you in with coffee, delicious homebakes and mouth-watering menus.

Just a stone’s throw away, at the town’s historic and thriving harbour front, visitors can take in scenic vistas looking towards the island of Shapinsay, all the while enjoying a refreshing local drink or a meal at one of the local pubs or hotels.

Leisure attractions, such as the Pickaquoy Centre — which boasts high-class sports facilities, a swimming pool and a cinema — offer activities for all ages, and, in Kirkwall as a whole, there are always new activities and experiences to be enjoyed.

Whether you enjoy a leisurely stroll along Kirkwall’s award-winning high street, spend an afternoon getting messy at arts and crafts shop Aal Fired Up, or an afternoon producing your own bespoke gin at the Orkney Distillery, there are delights hidden around every corner of Orkney’s main town.

If your plans include taking in a particular attraction, shop or activity, please make sure to check ahead, for up-to-date opening and service times.