WIND YOUR WAY THROUGH STROMNESS

Perched on the edge of Hamnavoe Bay, under the shelter of Brinkie’s Brae, lies the historic seaport of Stromness. Now Orkney’s second largest town, with a population of just under 2,200 people, Stromness was born out of the waters it teeters beside.

The stretch of land that the town now inhabits has long been used by ships as a natural harbour, but it wasn’t until the tail end of the 16th century that the first recorded development on its shores would take place.

In 1595, William and Mareon Clark took advantage of the visiting sailors to build an inn. From a location on the north-east corner of Hamnavoe Bay, slightly further out than the town would develop, they sold the ale that they made to passing sailors. This little inn was a sign of bigger things to come.

As Great Britain went to war with France in the 17th century, merchant shipping was forced to avoid the English Channel. Boats instead began to look for shelter further north, and Stromness became an essential port.

Among these merchant companies was the famous name of one London-based group — The Hudson’s Bay Company. They chose this route as their stop-off before their long trip to Canada, and continued to use it as their port of call long after peace had settled.

The ships of the Hudson’s Bay Company made annual recruitment calls in Stromness, and large numbers of Orcadians joined them to head to Arctic Canada. Alongside this, the whaling industry began to boom, recruiting many more Stromnessians.

During the 18th and 19th century, the town had become the crossroads of a maritime world, which stretched from the South Pacific to the North Atlantic. Between these two industries, its citizens had travelled further than anyone might expect from such a small town.

You can still see the remains of their travels today in the Stromness Museum, which charts much of this seaport’s nautical history.

The museum itself is an historical institution. Established in 1837, by the Orkney Natural History Society, it has occupied its current premises at 52 Alfred Street since 1862.

In more recent history, the town played a vital rule in the World Wars.

Overlooking one of the most important harbours of the Second World War — Scapa Flow — Stromness was the perfect location for a military presence.

A short walk out of town, and overlooking the Hoy Sound, you can still see that presence at the Ness Battery. These wooden and concrete structures were built to defend Scapa Flow.

When peace once again reigned, Stromness took up a new role, becoming a hub for artists and writers within Orkney, which continues to this day.

One of its most famous residents was renowned Orcadian writer George Mackay Brown. If you walk through the streets, you might just come upon his old house, where a plaque acknowledges his residence there.

Today, Stromness is the first glimpse of Orkney that many tourists will see as they arrive on Northlink Ferries’ MV Hamnavoe, from Scrabster.

A small town of winding streets and old stone houses, it’s not hard to see how this charming town has become a popular destination for tourists.

Boasting views over Scapa Flow and the island of Hoy, everywhere you look there’s something to be discovered.

On a beautiful day, just taking a walk through the narrow streets or the nearby rolling countryside is plenty of reason to visit.

Notably, Stromness has about 170 buildings which have been listed by the secretary of state for Scotland for their historic and architectural importance.

It has been home to many historic events and people — why not see if you can spot some of the plaques that mark these historic places throughout the town?

On a rainy day, there are plenty of places to pop into to escape the weather. Just make sure you take heed of any restrictions which may be in place when you visit. Not only can you shelter in one of the town’s inviting pubs or have a spot of lunch within a quaint café, it also boasts an array of independent shops.

Stromness is home to a fine selection of galleries, and the county’s oldest museum. From the award-winning Pier Arts Centre, with its extensive collection of modern art and frequently changing exhibitions, to Stromness Museum, with its focus on natural history, whaling and the German Fleet in Scapa Flow, there is plenty to see. There’s also an independent cinema — aptly named the West Side Cinema, because of its location — offering film screenings in the Town Hall.

If you’re more of an active outdoors type, this small town boasts its own swimming pool, gym and health suite. You can also take a dive and explore the history of Scapa Flow, with businesses along the harbour offering tours and equipment.

Check ahead of your visit that attractions/ businesses are operating under normal opening hours, and again, please heed any COVID restrictions which may be in place.

Stromness is still very much a town of explorers, although their explorations are a little closer to home than those of their ancestors. This small town is at the centre of the emerging renewable energy industry, with the European Marine Energy Centre (EMEC) having its base in the centre of the town. Students come from all over the world to study at Heriot Watt University, at the town’s International Centre for Islands Technology.

The time of year you visit plays a major role in what’s on offer as well. After all, this town hosts several festivals throughout the year.

With music festivals such as the Orkney Folk Festival in May and the Orkney Blues Festival in September primarily taking place within the town, music lovers are sure to have a great time here.

Running in the middle of July, Stromness Shopping Week is also a major draw to the town. This annual gala event has taken place for decades, and has featured stiltwalkers and RAF fly-bys, among other activities. There is fun for all the family at this prime summer event — don’t miss it!