AUTHENTIC ISLAND LIFE
North Ronaldsay is Orkney’s most northerly and outlying island. Further north than the southern tip of Norway, this other-worldly isle in the archipelago may be small (coming in at three miles long and two miles wide), but its historical and cultural significance spans far and wide.
Wartime structures, truly unique wildlife, buried secrets still being unearthed and some very special sheep make this blessed island a must-visit.
Arriving by the tiny Loganair Islander aircraft, explorers may spot from their windows a special feature of the island welcoming you on your descent: the Grade A-listed North Ronaldsay Sheep Dyke.
Encircling the entire islands, hugging its rocky coasts as if to defend from the barrage from the bitter seas, this drystone dyke was raised in the 1800s to maintain and protect one of North Ronaldsay’s most vital residents, a flock of seaweed-eating sheep.
Found on the untamed outskirts, these sheep have come to feast upon the Scottish seaweed that washes upon the stony shore. The sheep are essential to the island’s economy, as their wool is processed by a special mill housed in the island’s lighthouse buildings, while the mutton is highly prized by leading chefs.
Yet this extends beyond a mere line of history, as visitors to this northern isle can join the community in the grand Sheep Festival held in July and August, where folk can make new friends, learn new skills, take local tours, join skill workshops, and top it all off with the reward of evening events. Here, music, dance, and community gatherings are thrown by hospitable residents.
The festival aims to promote the importance of this rare breed of sheep, and sees volunteers and visitors help rebuild and strengthen the 13-mile dyke that has fallen into disrepair, as it battles with the stormy weather. Such is the importance of this that, in 2019, the full-time post of sheep dyke warden was created.
Heading northwards, tucked away at the furthermost extremities of the island are the twin towers of the North Ronaldsay Lighthouse, and its protected predecessor, the Old Beacon. Standing proud as the UK’S tallest land-based lighthouse, the North Ronaldsay Lighthouse was built with reliable red-brick in the 1800s, and offers several attractions, including the visitor centre and café, the full 360-degree sea-views (perhaps sighting Fair Isle), nearby wool-mill, and the chance to stay at one of two selfcatering Assistant Lighthouse Keepers Cottages.
Not far down the south-west of the coast rests the Old Beacon, another Grade A-listed treat, standing at 70 feet, built in 1789.
Both these lighthouses were built by the famous Stevenson dynasty, with the founder, Robert Stevenson, assisting Thomas Smith in the design of the Old Beacon, and his son, Alan Stevenson, designing and building the new one.
Heading to the centre of North Ronaldsay, folk can find the Archives at the New Kirk. History buffs can find a wealth of information and records on agriculture, fishing, health and education, along with plenty of images documenting island life through the generations.
Turning your attention southward, but your gaze to the skies, you can find yourself at the Bird Observatory. It was established in 1987, to record and study migrant birds as they pass through, and sometimes catches glimpses of rare birds such as the White’s Thrush, on its journey to the Ural Mountains in Russia.
An accommodating café, camping area, hostel and guest houses are found nesting there too, with a grocery store and other amenities for those wishing to camp up.
As rare beauties glide above, so does hidden treasure lie below. Archaeology enthusiasts continue to unearth the isle’s natural secrets, such as the mighty Stan Stane. This 13-ft standing stone is thought to be an ancient tool or commemoration of celestial events, as noted by the hole running through it (an unusual feature for Orkney’s many standing stones.)
To this day, at New Year, North Ronadlsay folk throw a centuries-old traditional custom of singing and dancing round Stan Stane.
In the east of the island, you can discover the remains of an Iron Age settlement, known as the Broch of Burrian. When excavated, a flat piece of carved stone was discovered to be inscribed with a decorative image, now called the Burrian Cross. This ancient artwork has even inspired local jewellery designers.
Other sights on your travels include various thriving wildlife, whether it be the numerous common and grey seals that breed around the island’s shore or — further out to sea – the cetaceans swim, where folk can spot dolphins, porpoises and the striking killer whales (or orcas.)
This small island shows all those who venture there what life on the edge of Orkney can really offer.
For more information, visit www.northronaldsay.co.uk or northronaldsaytrust.com