WESTRAY’S SISTER ISLE
Papa Westray makes a great day trip — but most people want to stay for longer. Around 90 people live in this small isle, known locally as “Papay,” It is vibrant and welcoming, offering a charming combination of wildlife and heritage.
The island’s guidebook, Exploring Papay, gives a compelling account of the island’s heritage. However, no sooner was it in print than a hugely important Viking graveyard was discovered here. What else remains to be found?
The ancient dwelling of Knap of Howar — a Neolithic farmhouse — is in remarkable condition. Its ancient walls and doorways give a tantalising glimpse into the distant past.
History from the Dark Ages to the 20th century is wonderfully represented by Celtic chapel sites, a Norse hog’s-back grave and the beautifully preserved Holland farmstead.
St Tredwell’s Chapel sits on an isolated promontory on the island’s main loch, while St Boniface Kirk has been beautifully restored, and is still used to this day.
Birds abound here. Nearly a third of the island is the RSPB North Hill reserve. Its wealth of wildlife includes breeding skuas and a small puffin colony, as well as a mass of the tiny Scottish Primrose, Primula scotica — a rare plant only known in the north of Scotland.
Seals are common along the coast. Papay also hosts a good range of birds in winter, and is becoming increasingly popular as a migration watchpoint.
Breathtaking, and amazingly affordable, daily flights allow visitors to reach the island in 15 minutes from Kirkwall Airport.
The Orkney Ferries’ “steamers” come into Papay twice weekly all year round but, from May to September, there is an enhanced ferry service via Westray. Over these months, every boat from Kirkwall to Westray is met by a connecting minibus, taking you across Westray to the Nordic Sea, which sails across to Papay.
The world’s shortest scheduled flight offers another way of hopping between Papay and the “Queen o’ the Isles.” Combine the complementary attractions of both islands, and it is easy to see how this north-western quarter of Orkney is becoming increasingly popular.
Papay Peedie Tours is a long-standing institution, now running each Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday from May to August.
All of the island’s wildlife and historic highlights are part of the tour, which combines expert guiding with the comfort and hospitality on which Papay prides itself.
The tours are run by the Papay Development Trust, while the Community Co-operative runs the island shop and the four-star hostel accommodation at Beltane House.
The uninhabited Holm of Papay is an enchanting isle just off Papay’s east coast. With its series of Neolithic burial cairns, wildlife, Holmie sheep and amazing sense of place, it is one of the country’s most sought-after remote island destinations.
Papay Development Trust has a fully-coded and insured boat in the water, with trained skippers to take visitors to the Holm when the weather conditions allow, from the end of May onwards.