PEACE AND QUIET
Sitting in the heart of Orkney’s North Isles is the island of Eday. Boasting beautiful beaches and rolling heather-topped hills, Eday is remarkable for its rugged beauty.
A beachcomber’s paradise, this island offers a variety of coastal walks. A wander across the road from Eday’s London Airport will take you to the stunning horseshoe-shaped sands of London Bay, a treasure trove for shell collectors. Across the airstrip, to the island’s West Side, you will find the sands of Doomy and Mussetter. On a sunny day, these two long beaches, separated only by a small outcrop of clay and sandstone, could easily be mistaken for the Mediterranean.
Sheltered in dunes of swaying seagrass, Mussetter perfectly showcases the vibrant variety of Orkney geology. Weather-worn pebbles and rugged rocks of red, yellow, blue and purple flank the beach on its shoreside. Eday is known for both its yellow and red sandstone — indeed, much of the stone used to build Kirkwall’s St Magnus Cathedral was sourced from this island.
In the clay cliffs above, you might spot a seabird or two nesting during the summer months. You can also enjoy views across to Faray, Westray and Papa Westray from the peace and tranquility of these golden sands.
Though Eday does not have a central village, it has a strong sense of community and a long tradition of farming, crofting, peat-cutting and quarrying. Delve into the island’s past with a visit to Eday Heritage Centre, which showcases artefacts loaned and donated by residents and visitors.
Alongside photos, memorabilia, and objects of cultural interest, the centre also hosts genealogical records going back into the 19th century. As well as brushing up on your family history, you can also learn more about Eday’s historic peat-cutting industry and how it is once more becoming a focal point for fuel as part of Orkney’s innovative renewable energy research.
If you are interested in wildlife, Eday does not disappoint. In recent years, a snowy owl has been spotted at a few locations around the island. Short-eared owls can regularly be sighted through the summer — keep an eye out too for the more elusive long-eared variety.
Seals are often spotted around the coast of Eday, and in recent years there have been both basking shark and orca sightings. Faray, one of the small, uninhabited islands to the west of Eday, is home to the second largest breeding colony of grey seals, which contributes to nine per cent of the annual UK pup production.
Eday also boasts the largest single standing stone in Orkney. Standing at 15-feet tall above the heather, the Stone of Setter is the main focal point of the island’s North End, overlooking Mill Loch, and close to the island’s community shop.
The bird hide which sits alongside the loch has site of special scientific interest status. It is a great place to do some serious birdwatching, including oyster catchers and red throated divers, to name but a few. Mill Loch has the densest breeding population in the UK, and the land around the loch lends itself to making an ideal nesting area.
Continuing north west from the Stone of Setter, you will find Vinquoy Cairn. Dating back to the Neolithic period, the cairn was excavated in 1857, by Farrer and Hebden, who broke into the chamber through the top, and cleared the entrance passage.
There, you will be presented with stunning views of the sea between Eday and the Calf of Eday— a small islet to the north. The coast there and the temperamental stretch of water between Eday and its calf is known as Calf Sound.
Once home to salt works, the Calf of Eday’s only inhabitants are wildlife, the area supporting 30,000 breeding birds of 12 different species. The land is covered by heather and semi-wet grassland. There are also prehistoric ruins, from the 17th to the 19th centuries. It was here that the infamous Orkney pirate, John Gow, ran his ship aground and was captured, before being taken to London for trial and execution.
Eday offers its visitors glorious sands, historical intrigue and tranquil walks, making it an excellent location for a day-trip or longer stay, with regular transport links by sea and air to Kirkwall.