LINKED SOUTH ISLES

SOUTH RONALDSAY, BURRAY, GLIMPSHOLM AND LAMBHOLM

Having arrived in Orkney by boat or plane, which of our islands can you visit without the aid of either of these, and not even a bridge? The answer is to be found in the South Isles — South Ronaldsay, Burray, Glimpsholm and Lambholm — which are linked to the Orkney Mainland by causeways known as the Churchill Barriers, built during the Second World War to protect the fleet anchorage in Scapa Flow.

Despite the physical connections, the islands have retained that special feel of small isles that have their own character.

The message here is a simple one. You will be missing a rare treat if you immediately head off north, away from Orkney’s southernmost isles, after driving off Pentland Ferries’ vessel, Alfred, which arrives at St Margaret’s Hope from Gills Bay in Caithness.

Many foot passengers cross the Pentland Firth from world-famous John O’ Groats to the South Isles — destination Burwick — by John O’ Groats’ Ferries.

Those boarding the waiting bus to Kirkwall will have tantalising glimpses of the islands’ attractions on their way north, and must surely be unable to resist the temptation to catch a scheduled bus service back to experience it all in person.

Similarly, visitors who have arrived on the Northlink ferry to Stromness, or by air, shouldn’t dream of going home without finding out for themselves what treasures these southern islands are. Just make sure before you make your travel plans that services are running as normal, and adhere to any COVID restrictions that may be in place.

The Orkney Fossil and Heritage Centre in Burray has long been a popular place to visit, for both local residents and tourists alike.

Since the late Leslie Firth opened the centre, in 1993, to house his collections, the exhibits of fossils, geology and Orkney heritage of artefacts have expanded greatly.

In South Ronaldsay, St Margaret’s Hope, or as this charming, little 16th-century town is known here, the ‘Hope, is a pleasure to explore.

The third largest town in Orkney, its name comes from the Old Norse hûp, meaning bay. Trading links in past centuries with mainland Europe have influenced architectural styles here.

A visit to the blacksmith’s museum, off Cromarty Square, is a reminder of how local communities depended on such facilities for their working tools and household goods.

A craft shop could be described as the modern equivalent, where today’s handmade garments, ornaments and paintings demonstrate why individual skills are still in great demand in an age of mass-production.

The Workshop is, however, more than that — upstairs is the Loft Gallery, where artists from all over Orkney exhibit their work. It is, in fact, the perfect place to find that special reminder of your visit, and a source of great presents to take home.

Every year, in August, the Festival of the Horse and Boys’ Ploughing Match — an event which is believed to be unique to Orkney — takes place in South Ronaldsay.

The festival dates back to at least the early 19th century. The “horses” — children dressed in decorated costumes — represent the old ploughing horses of days gone by, and the outfits are often passed down from generation to generation, as are the ploughs.

No trip across the barriers is complete without a visit to the Italian Chapel on Lambholm. It is the only visible reminder that this was once the site of Camp 60 — the prisoner-of-war camp where hundreds of Italians were housed while they worked on the nearby Churchill Barriers, more than 50 years ago.

It is also a remarkable example of how a faith can survive in the adversity of war, and it stands today as a symbol of peace and reconciliation after those years of conflict in World War Two.

Again, please do check ahead if you plan to visit a particular attraction, and adhere to any restrictions that may be in place.