KIRKWALL IS CALLING
Awarm welcome awaits in Kirkwall, Orkney’s largest town, hailed in recent years not only for how visitors are embraced, but also for having the most beautiful high street in Scotland.
These accolades should come as no surprise to the many people who flock to its scenic streets, to enjoy this renowned warm hospitality in the town’s boutique shops, fine eateries and pleasant bars.
Although the most populated area in Orkney, where almost a third of residents live, the town centre is neatly compact, and everything is easily accessible on foot.
The town centres around the magnificent, red sandstone St Magnus Cathedral. Nearly 900 years old, with a spire reaching 160ft tall, this is Britain’s most northerly cathedral.
Known as the “Light in the North,” it has joined a select few British cathedrals, such as Canterbury and Westminster Abbey, in Simon Jenkins’ acclaimed book, Europe’s Best 100 Cathedrals.
In summer, Kirkwall comes into bloom, quite literally, with spectacular hanging baskets along the street, local musicians playing in the open air, and themed events taking place across the year.
When a cruise liner has docked at Hatston pier, the town becomes a commotion of tour guides, street entertainment, and mingling tourists and locals.
There is plenty for shoppers, with a surprising number of boutique stores, as well as some recognisable national chains and excellent local alternatives.
Jewellery, designer knitwear and stylish local fashion are all available from friendly staff with supreme knowledge of their trade.
Gift shops cater for all price ranges, and well-stocked toy and record shops will entertain and reward those with time to browse — while the bookshop, art galleries and tweed maker are also well worth a visit.
Local food and drink from a variety of shops throughout Kirkwall, stocking Orkney’s best seafood and meat, as well as an extensive range of wines and spirits. Other shops, including but not limited to Highland Park and The Peedie Bottle Shop, will delight whisky or beer connoisseurs.
Kirkwall caters well for those who want to sit in, offering a range of local and international cuisines in welcoming surroundings, priced for all budgets.
From great traditional meals to modern smallplate dining, Kirkwall offers it all, including a variety of coffee shops for those who want a drink or a snack, an ice cream parlour and, of
course, unbeatable fish and chips.
On the edge of the town is The Pickaquoy Centre, with its gym, climbing wall and swimming pool. It also houses the town’s cinema, and sits beside the local skate park.
On the other side of the town is the Orkney Theatre, housed in Kirkwall Grammar School, which welcomes a wide range of guests and artistes through its impressive doors.
A pleasant morning can be spent strolling around the town’s various scenic spots. The Peedie Sea and harbour front make for pleasing walks, while the marina and bustling harbour are also well worth a gentle wander.
Just two miles from the town is Scapa — one of Orkney’s most popular beaches. With a stretch of sand almost a kilometre long, Scapa beach can be a hive of activity in the summer for both tourists and locals.
Kirkwall has always been home to a range of lively bars and pubs, but recently the diversity of what is on offer has expanded, with more offering food, craft beer and a selection of malt whiskies.
The thriving local music scene, with its mix of traditional and modern folk music as well as plenty of stomping rock and roll bands, can also be taken in most weekends at various bars in town.
Kirkwall has become a more cosmopolitan and youthful town over the last decade, with increasing numbers of students at the college and university campus, abd it is also home to a burgeoning digital industry.
While the town looks to the future, as with all of Orkney, its history draws in many visitors. And there is plenty for history lovers to enjoy, including Bishop’s and Earl’s Palaces which are nestled beside the cathedral.
The Bishop’s Palace was built in the mid-12th century for Bishop William the Old, the friend and companion of Earl Rognvald Kolsson, the nephew of St Magnus and founder of the cathedral. Earl’s Palace has a darker history.
Built for the wicked Earl Patrick Stewart, and constructed using forced labour, the building was designed to be a monument to the Earl’s arrogance, and intended to be unrivalled in design, comfort and beauty.
What remains today still impresses. Massive cellars and kitchens give a sense of what once was, and the great hall on the first floor was said to have been one of the finest state rooms in all of Scotland .
Whether it is an afternoon stroll, a bite to eat, lively engaging culture, or a night out, Kirkwall’s warm welcome has it all.