The Orkney Islander

SAND, HISTORY & TRANQUIL WALKS IN EDAY

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Boasting beautiful beaches and rolling hills, Eday is remarkable for its rugged beauty. A beachcombe­r’s paradise, it offers a variety of coastal walks. A wander across the road from Eday’s London Airport will take you to the stunning horseshoes­haped sands of London Bay, a treasure trove for shell collectors. Across the airstrip, to the island’s west side, you will find the sands of Doomy and Mussetter. On a sunny day, these two long beaches, separated only by a small outcrop of clay and sandstone, could easily be mistaken for the Mediterran­ean.

Sheltered in dunes of swaying seagrass, Mussetter perfectly showcases the vibrant variety of Orkney geology. Weather-worn pebbles and rugged rocks of red, yellow, blue and purple flank the beach on its shoreside. Eday is known for both its yellow and red sandstone — indeed, much of the stone used to build Kirkwall’s St Magnus Cathedral was sourced from this island.

In the clay cliffs above, you might spot a seabird or two nesting during the summer months. You can also enjoy views across to Faray, Westray and Papa Westray from the peace and tranquilit­y of these golden sands.

Though Eday does not have a central village, it has a strong sense of community, and a long tradition of farming, crofting, peat-cutting and quarrying. Delve into the island’s past with a visit to Eday Heritage Centre, which showcases artefacts loaned and donated by residents and visitors.

Alongside photograph­s, memorabili­a, and objects of cultural interest, the centre also hosts genealogic­al records going back into the 19th century.

As well as brushing up on your family history, you can also learn more about Eday’s historic peat-cutting industry and how the island is once more becoming a focal point for fuel as part of Orkney’s innovative renewable energy research. This includes work by the European Marine Energy Centre (EMEC) at the Fall of Warness.

If you are interested in wildlife, Eday does not disappoint. In recent years, a snowy owl has been spotted at a few locations around the island. Short-eared owls can regularly be sighted through the summer — keep an eye out too for the more elusive long-eared variety.

Seals are often spotted around the coast of Eday, and in recent years there have been both basking shark and orca sightings.

Faray, one of the small, uninhabite­d islands to the west of Eday, is home to the second largest breeding colony of grey seals, which contribute­s to nine per cent of the annual UK pup production.

Eday also boasts the largest single standing stone in Orkney. Standing at 15-feet tall above the heather, the Stone of Setter is the main focal point of the island’s north end, overlookin­g Mill Loch. On your way, you can stop by the newly refurbishe­d community shop and café.

The bird hide sits alongside the loch. With Site of Special Scientific Interest status, it is a great place to do some serious birdwatchi­ng, including oyster catchers and red-throated divers. Mill Loch has the densest breeding population in the UK.

Continuing north west from the Stone of Setter, you will find Vinquoy Cairn. Dating back to the Neolithic period, the cairn was excavated in 1857, by Farrer and Hebden, who broke into the chamber through the top, and cleared the entrance passage.

There, you will be presented with stunning views of the Calf of Eday — a small islet to the north. The coast there and the temperamen­tal stretch of water between Eday and its calf is known as Calfsound.

Once home to saltworks, the Calf of Eday’s only inhabitant­s are wildlife, with the grass and heather-covered area supporting 30,000 breeding birds of 12 different species. There are also prehistori­c ruins, from the 17th to the 19th centuries. It was there that the infamous Orkney pirate, John Gow, ran his ship aground and was captured, before being taken to London for trial and execution.

Eday offers its visitors glorious sands, historical intrigue and tranquil walks, making it an excellent location for a day trip or a longer stay, with regular transport links by sea and air to Kirkwall.

 ?? ?? Sunset over Calfsound. (Len Garson)
Sunset over Calfsound. (Len Garson)
 ?? Setter Stone. (Sarah Gilmour) ??
Setter Stone. (Sarah Gilmour)

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