Willie Shand discovers a wealth of stories along Edinburgh’s Royal Mile
EDINBURGH’S historic Royal Mile is one of the most attractive streets in Europe. Every foot of its mile and 106 yards bears witness to events in Scotland’s turbulent past.
At its top is Edinburgh Castle; at its foot is the Palace of Holyroodhouse.
The route between the two has been followed by countless kings and queens down the centuries.
There are dozens of closes, pends and wynds springing from the main street, all deserving exploration: Skinner’s
Close, Anchor Close, Fleshmarket Close, Bishop’s Close, Bull Close, Fountain Close – the list goes on!
Some take their names from those who once lived there, others from markets and events held within them. Most have their own tales to tell.
Today, Edinburgh’s Old Town is a desirable place to live. Three or four hundred years ago, though, its streets and closes would have painted a different picture.
Being a walled city, as the population grew, the gaps that once separated gardens became narrow closes squeezed between tall tenements.
The only direction for expansion was up. Some of the tenements rose 15 or 16 storeys, making them amongst the tallest in Europe at the time.
The closes were so narrow it’s said that in some instances, people in neighbouring blocks could shake hands with the person opposite!
With open sewers running down the street, livestock everywhere and folk throwing their slops out the window, it was a stinking, unhealthy place to live.
You’ll discover lots of old-world character in the closes, though you might not manage into all 70-odd of them!
Cross Makars’ Court, where you’ll notice some literary names and quotes engraved in the courtyard paving, to the picturesque Lady Stair’s Close
Lady Stair’s House at the foot of the close was built in 1622 by William Gray, and boasts some distinctive architecture, including a “trip stair”.
The spiral stair not only ran clockwise, giving occupants a distinct advantage over those ascending in a sword fight, but had a few odd-height steps mixed in to catch out the unsuspecting!
Today, Lady Stair’s House is home to the Writers’ Museum, where you can learn about Robert Louis Stevenson, Sir Walter Scott and Robert Burns and their associations with the city.
A bit further down the Mile, on the south side of the street, is the entrance to Brodie’s Close, named for Francis Brodie, father of the infamous William Brodie.
William’s name is given to o the pub across the street – Deacon Brodie’s Tavern.
Like his father, William was a cabinetmaker and glass grinder. He was well respected and a member of the town council.
At least, that’s what he was by day. At night he assumed a different role.
William enjoyed theft and gambling and, besides his wife, had children with two other mistresses! No wonder he turned to crime!
He hid behind a cloak of respectability and no-one suspected him. It was William who gave Robert Louis Stevenson inspiration for the characters Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde.
He was to get his comeuppance when he and his accomplices tried to rob the Excise Office. One of them claimed the reward on offer for disclosing the thief’s identity.
Brodie tried to make his escape, but was caught and taken to the gallows.
What a tremendous view we can enjoy from the Castle Esplanade, looking out over Princes Street and its gardens to the Forth and Grampians beyond.
There’s another fine view to be had from steep and narrow Advocate’s Close across from St Giles. The close frames the 200-feethigh Scott Monument.
Although many of the close’s old buildings no longer exist, it’s worth entering Advocate’s Close if only for that picture.
There are no prizes for guessing how Old Fishmarket Close won its
Willie Shand discovers the many stories on the streets of Scotland’s capital.
name. In old Edinburgh, this would have been one of the least desirable places to live.
Open fish markets were held here from as early as 1592. The stench must have been horrendous.
It was home for a time to Daniel Defoe – the man who brought us “Robinson Crusoe”.
Apparently, at the time of the Union in 1707, Daniel was enlisted as a spy for the English government.
He maybe didn’t enjoy much socialising with his neighbours, though, as Old Fishmarket Close was home to the town’s hangman, and a busy chap he was, too!
The tall tenements of the
Old Town were home to a cross section of society.
Those lowest in the food chain occupied the lower floors and attics, while professional people or even aristocrats would live in the floors between.
Edinburgh’s old mercat cross used to stand at the entrance to this close, before being removed and eventually restored. You’ll find it today in Parliament Square.
Continuing down the high Street, we come to a close with the amusing name World’s End Close.
The name owes its origins to the fact this was the last close on the high street before reaching the old city gates. For Edinburgh folk, anything beyond the city walls was considered a less safef f world. ld
Near the foot of the Royal Mile, as we approach the Palace of Holyroodhouse, is one of the Mile’s most picturesque and romantic closes – White Horse Close.
It’s said to be named after Mary, Queen of Scots’s palfrey. Back in the 16th century, this may have been home to the stables for Holyroodhouse.
The close was well known for its coaching inn, the White Horse Inn. This was the start and end of the long and slow journey linking Edinburgh with Newcastle and London.
During the 1745 Jacobite Rebellion, the inn was commandeered as the headquarters for the Jacobite commanders.
Bonnie Prince Charlie, of course, thought he deserved more salubrious digs and stayed at Holyroodhouse.
Incidentally, the southern terminus of the Edinburgh
to London coach route was “Scotland Yard” – which retained its name as home of London’s police force.
Really, it doesn’t matter how often you walk the Royal Mile, you’ll always discover something new.