Solange Hando embarks on a dream Canadian adventure
Solange Hando is on track to celebrate a special birthday, with spectacular scenery at every turn.
HOW do you celebrate a special birthday? “Relax and enjoy.” My friend smiled. “Let’s explore a new place – somewhere to watch the views, not the road.”
And that was it! We decided to see Canada by rail on its most popular route, over 2,500 miles from Toronto to Vancouver.
“Welcome, ladies. Two cosy ‘roomettes’ just for you. The bed comes down from the wall, there’s private facilities and a shower along the corridor.
“Sleep well; it’s almost midnight,” we were told as we were welcomed aboard.
It was too late to unpack, I thought, so I drifted off ever so blissfully, lulled by dreams of Niagara Falls, which had held us spellbound for a whole day before we boarded the train.
I did wake up a few times, with freight trains rattling past as we wobbled into the sidings. Then the full moon beckoned through the trees, sprinkling a touch of magic on a brand-new adventure.
Come morning, there was plenty of time to discover our “home”.
The train was a quarter of a mile long, with a dining-room five carriages away, an activity area to track our route, play board games or buy souvenirs, and a raised observation car where you could look down on your train from end to end, snaking through the forest.
Shadows shifted here and there, lakes glistened, totally deserted, and we saw the odd patch of snow.
The only stop was Hornepayne, to pick up a handful of locals.
We made the most of a “slow-down” day and a peaceful night when I kept the blind open to look at the stars.
That was amazing. We arrived in Winnipeg as the sun rose, flaming red over the prairies.
It was time to wave goodbye to our train, as Manitoba’s capital
promised us two nonrickety nights in one of its best hotels.
There was so much to see, so where should we start?
Assiniboine Park came top of the list, boasting its own forest, gardens and a conservation zoo, where we gazed at rescued polar bears, reindeer, elks and more.
Later we explored the city: the elegant French quarters, China Town, glittering red and gold, the quirky Osborne Village, and the striking Museum of Human Rights rising above the Red River.
After so many hours on the train, it was good to walk, and on the second day we headed to the “Forks”, the confluence of the Assiniboine and Red Rivers.
That was a lovely place, with scenic walks and outdoor cafés, a gorgeous food court, bustling market and a “candy train” in a disused carriage selling old-fashioned sweets.
We feasted on pancakes drizzled in maple syrup and gazed at Canada geese pecking on the grass, totally unperturbed.
We left the next day, following the Assiniboine, meandering through hills and vales before reaching the cereal plains of Saskatchewan.
It was a laid-back afternoon and a pleasant night, though we woke to steady rain on the golden prairies.
Yet the brightly coloured beehives glistened like jewels, and we rattled on through ever-changing landscapes towards the Canadian Rockies.
Freight trains, farmers’ driveways, works on the track – time was “flexible” and we took it in our stride.
We reached Jasper late into the night, then crashed out in our beautiful hotel with mountain views lit up by the moon.
At over 3,000 feet, Jasper nestles in its own National Park.
With its steep roofs, log cabins, lofty pines full of fragrance and snowy mountain tops, we absolutely loved it!
We could have dozed all day by a glowing fire, but the wilderness waited on the doorstep.
So off we went, climbing up the mountain road all the way to the Athabasca Glacier, the most accessible and magnificent stretch of the Columbia Icefield.
With bright blue sky and high peaks all around, it was like a fairy tale: first a daunting sky walk above the river gorge, then an incredible ride on the Ice Explorer.
Then, to send shivers down our spines, there was a sudden sprinkling of snow and the ominous rumbling of an avalanche out of sight. What more could we want?
A waterfall, a wild bear, an emerald river? It was all there on our way back.
The following morning we roamed around the Valley of the Five Lakes, gazed into the Maligne Canyon and looked out for eagles, ospreys and caribous, while taking notice of the signs: Bear about; don’t run.
I didn’t want to leave, but later, in the observation car, we caught a glance of Mount Robson, the highest point in the Canadian Rockies.
We passed the watershed between the Atlantic and the Pacific, and the
Pyramid Creek Falls dropping in three tiers from a hanging valley.
Soon the Rockies had gone, yet just after dawn we saw more mountains, tunnels and gorges.
The wide Fraser River led to our final destination in British Columbia.
On a stunning peninsula framed by mountains, Vancouver took our breath away.
Downtown was a feast of colour, but up in the hills nature was calling, laced in pristine scenery and panoramic views.
Stanley Park was a vast oasis of forest, beaches and lakes, claiming 200 species of birds.
Capilano greeted us with totem poles, a long suspension bridge and an exciting treetop walk.
On the snow-covered slopes of Grouse Mountain, we looked down on the vibrant city, ocean and islands bathed in brilliant sunshine.
“This is your last day. Everybody to Vancouver Island?” the guide asked. “I’ll show you Victoria, the provincial capital, but first I have a surprise for you.”
Beyond the luminous vineyards, we discovered
the famous Butchart Gardens, with myriad spring flowers fluttering among the fountains and scenic look-outs.
Then the quaint capital delighted us with horsedrawn carriages, a glistening marina, bakeries, antiques, pastel façades and grand Victorian buildings.
It was a fabulous end to our trip, and as we sailed back to Vancouver mainland, we watched the sun set, all silver and gold, over the Pacific Ocean.