Willie Shand follows an ancient track between Bridge of Allan and Dunblane
Willie Shand takes us along the Darn Walk between Bridge Of Allan and Dunblane.
AT the town of Bridge of Allan, three miles north of Stirling, one might not be surprised to find a bridge crossing the Allan Water.
There’s been a bridge here since at least 1520, and before that a ferry boat would have taken travellers across the river.
At Stirling, the Allan Water will end its journey when it joins the waters of the River Forth.
Motorists heading north for Dunblane and Doune along the old A9 might catch a fleeting glimpse of the river as they cross the bridge, but today I thought I’d keep the river company and walk the ancient track between Bridge of Allan and Dunblane.
It’s known as the Darn Walk, and it is a lovely walk for any time of the year.
Few in Bridge of Allan are likely to complain about the rain. If it wasn’t for water, the town as we know it wouldn’t be there.
In times past, the river would drive the wheels of the local textile mills.
That same river was well known for its excellent sea trout, and on the Darn Walk we’ll pass the Fisher’s Green, where the fishermen would lay out their nets to dry.
The most valuable water in Bridge of Allan, though, was its mineral springs. They were discovered in 1813 just by chance.
When the local laird, Sir Robert Abercromby, found water seeping into his copper mines, he didn’t just pump it out – he had it analysed and struck liquid gold.
Word soon spread, and in a very short while Bridge of Allan had become a fashionable spa. Folk came from near and far to take its health-giving waters.
Soon, grand mansions, guest houses and hotels were springing up to cater for the influx of visitors.
Before the railway arrived, there were as many as five stage coaches a day bringing health tourists.
One family that made regular visits to enjoy the water’s therapeutic properties was the
Stevenson family – including a young Robert Louis Stevenson.
The Darn Walk was one of his favourite places to play and, not surprisingly, was to sow the seeds that in later life would inspire him when writing some of his famous adventure novels.
The local chemist, Gilbert Farie, must have left a lasting impression on the young lad, too.
Being well known for his double life by day and night, he’s widely regarded as having given Robert the inspiration for his main character for “The Strange Case Of Dr Jekyll And Mr Hyde”.
There’s a lot of water in the Allan today as it rushes noisily over a set of rapids close by the track.
This is often a good place to find herons, and a wee horse comes to meet me as I pass the Fisher’s Green.
The track soon climbs into the woods high above the river, and suddenly we’re not alone as I spot a pair of eyes watching me from the trees. Someone has cleverly created a face from the tree’s natural features.
Yes, the trees are indeed watching us, and who knows what they get up to in the dark!
Descending a deep gully to cross Cock’s Burn over a wooden bridge and set of stepping stones, there’s not much light.
It’s a dark, atmospheric place. I wasn’t sure whether to bother carrying a tripod, but in the low light of this dense, shady gully, I’m glad I did.
A flight of steps brings us back down to the bank of the water, and to a little rock cave.
Next time you drive into Braemar, you might notice a wee plaque above the front door of a grey stone house.
It records that R.L. Stevenson wrote his first great work, “Treasure Island”, in this house in 1881.
There’s lost treasure and pirates aplenty in “Treasure Island”. Who hasn’t heard of Long John Silver or of Ben Gunn?
This little cave above the Allan Water was very likely the cave that transformed through Robert’s imagination into Ben Gunn’s cave.
At the entrance to the cave is a carved bench, complete with treasure chest, skull and crossbones, a map, a pirate and, of course, a parrot.
Just beyond the cave a concrete bridge crosses the Allan Water, but for the Darn Walk to Dunblane we don’t cross it.
Instead, a wooden footbridge takes us over the Wharry Burn as it spills down to meet the Allan.
The next bit of the way is again quite atmospheric – and just a wee bit spooky – as we climb a steep narrow track closed in between two moss-covered stone dykes.
It’s an old road, but too narrow for any modern vehicles. Today, with water running down the middle, it’s a bit like walking up a burn!
Amazingly, having been up to my ankles in glaur much of the way, my feet are still dry.
The last stretch follows the edge of a golf course before dropping to cross the A9, meeting again the Allan Water beneath the Auld Brig.
And, if anything in Dunblane claims to be auld, there’s every chance it’s older than even history cares to remember.
The first bridge over the river at Dunblane was built around 1410; before this it was crossed by a ford.
The Romans no doubt used that ford, but so, too, many centuries later, did the army of William Wallace on its way to the Battle of Stirling Bridge, and that of King Robert the Bruce on their march to Bannockburn.
Not far from the bridge, the river is joined by the Minnie Burn. It, too, has had its moment of excitement: on February 5, 1746, the Duke of Cumberland was en route to Culloden when he encountered one of Bonnie Prince Charlie’s most staunch supporters – Jessie, “The Flower O’ Dunblane.”
Jessie may not have been able to fight with sword or musket, but