Stunning Shoreham-by-sea
Pat Coulter enjoys a relaxed coastal adventure through the quaint streets of this Sussex harbour town.
TODAY, it’s water, water everywhere as we follow the River Adur in West Sussex from the quaint, community harbour town of Shoreham-by-sea, inland past some of the area’s most iconic landmarks.
Only five miles along the coast from the seaside city of Brighton and Hove, Shoreham is a much quieter backwater with a pleasing, laid-back vibe.
It shares none of its close neighbour’s brashness and vibrancy.
However, for more than a century those in the know have been lured to its shores for all manner of reasons – some rather surprising, I’ve heard tell.
So, let’s delve into Shoreham’s history as there’s the promise of a wealth of treasure to discover.
We’re beginning our day crunching along the pebbled foreshore of Shoreham Beach, alongside the harbour entrance where patient fisherman hope for a nibble on their lines.
“Mackerel are running, so we’re hoping for a bountiful catch.” One rodman smiles optimistically, baiting his line.
Avid avian spotters train their binoculars on scurrying turnstones and orange-beaked oystercatchers.
Poppy’s sensitive nose appreciates the delightful salt-laden air as she scampers after loafing seagulls who agilely take to flight, much to her consternation.
Shoreham Beach is a shingle spit, created by long-shore drift over millennia. Nature has sculpted the landscape, creating a wonderfully diverse wildlife habitat, now a protected nature reserve.
Tough plant species thrive in colourful abundance. There are yellow-horned poppies,
cabbage-like sea kale, mallow, red valerian and stonecrop.
A boardwalk stretches in the direction of Worthing, making the beach accessible for all from wheelchair users to youngsters vigorously peddling trikes and bombing along gleefully on scooters.
Local dog walker Kim shares with me her enthusiasm for living here, not that I need convincing.
“I love coming down on the beach in the evenings to watch the sun go down over the sea.
“On a clear day, particularly after rain, you can even see the Isle of Wight and in the other direction, beyond Brighton the setting sun lights up the Seven Sisters chalk cliffs near Beachy Head.”
Known as Portus Adurni in Roman times, Shoreham is where King Charles II made his escape from England to Fecamp, Normandy, on the coal brig
Surprise in 1651.
The town marks the end of the Monarch’s Way, a 625-mile, shoe-leatherwearing long-distance footpath that follows the King’s escape route after being defeated at the Battle of Worcester.
The town was also the last sight of Blighty for valiant troops departing for war-torn D-day beaches in Normandy.
Situated along the spit are architect-designed beach front properties, a far seagull’s cry from yesteryear when the area was known simply as Bungalow Town!
A century or so ago ramshackle properties were built hereabouts, often from disused railway carriages, for high days and holidays.
Many of these houses were frequented by the glamorous artistic set from London, most notably actors and actresses.
You see, long before Hollywood was a glint in any film director’s eye, Shoreham-by-sea became the pioneering Tinsel Town film centre of the UK.
Filmmakers were attracted by the smog-free atmosphere, making the quality of air much purer than smoky, pollution-laden inland conurbations.
One notable film pioneer was theatrical scenery painter turned film producer and director Francis Lyndhurst, grandfather of comedy actor Nicholas Lyndhurst of “Only Fools And Horses” fame.
Francis’s first film, called “The Showman’s Dream”, was shot here in 1914. The films were made at Shoreham Fort by his production company known as Sealite or Sunny South Film Company.
Disused Shoreham Fort, wonderfully preserved, was built in the 1850s as a gun placement to repel French forces and still stands to this day with no malignant intention.
Its fortress-like structure, with high walls and ramparts, was an ideal sheltered spot for filmmakers.
Less wind disturbance ensured more stability for the shaky wooden tripod cameras. The high walls of the fort also provided a secure perimeter which kept inquisitive folk out.
The following year Francis set up the Glasshouse Studio in a nearby glass-sided building.
Unfortunately, despite his entrepreneurial efforts, the business failed, and he returned to his former occupation as a scenery painter.
During World War II, the barn in which he had stored his films was destroyed by bombing.
Sadly, no copies of any of his films are known to remain, but there is archival footage during the pre-world War I period from other production companies that survive to this day.
We are now making our way across the handy footbridge over the River Adur which links Shoreham Beach with the town itself.
It’s the perfect vantage point to admire the riverside houseboat community, vessels companionably moored alongside each other.
The boats are an eclectic mix of all things afloat.
Many have surprisingly quirky extensions, salvaged in magpie fashion and ingeniously upcycled, reflecting the creativity and the imagination of the boat owners.
This unique houseboat community has been growing since the end of World War II when decommissioned military ships were retired to Shoreham’s tidal mud flats.
Today, some 50 to 60 houseboats can be found on the River Adur. As the vessels are waterborne, they are exempt from strict buildings regulations. Highlights include The
Verda, made from a conglomeration of different boats, as well as two buses and a Reliant Robin (“Only Fools And Horses” again!)
The Dodge incorporates an old fire engine and is available for rent on Airbnb.
Clive is a former World War II motor torpedo boat with an aeroplane on top, housing a pop-up café.
The Fische isa former German
minesweeper. Designed for a crew of 30, it now provides spacious accommodation for its owners.
Shoreham town centre delights with narrow streets, lined with Georgian cottages.
The Marlipins Museum of local history on the high street is well worth a look.
It is housed in what is thought to be the oldest complete secular building in Britain still in use. The early 12th-century structure was a hospital.
Travel restrictions may still be in place. Please check latest advice before planning your trip.
Due to current circumstances we are unable to pop inside to view its extensive Maritime collection.
However, we can still admire the distinctive chequerboard-patterned facade of flint and stone and hope for a future return to explore further.
Time for us to stretch our legs, heading inland along the snaking River Adur on the user-friendly Downs Link Path, favoured by fellow dog walkers, joggers and cyclists heading for the top of the South Downs where glorious coastal views beckon.
Light aircraft skim over our heads from nearby Shoreham Airport. This is the UK’S oldest continuously operating commercial airport.
It opened way back in 1910. Daringly brave pilots from the Royal Flying Corps flew from here during World War I. It’s a popular latter-day filming location, too.
The airport’s eyecatchingly exquisite Art Deco terminal building is in great demand for filming scenes set during the 1930s and can be seen in “The Crown” on Netflix and
ITV’S “Poirot”, starring David Suchet.
All comers can enjoy a slice of “Poirot” and piece of cake in the airport’s Hummingbird Restaurant and Café whilst planespotting alongside the busy runway.
Those more adventurous can take to the skies for themselves with scenic pleasure flights out over Brighton or even Beachy Head beyond.
The most impressive landmark lies ahead.
Lancing College Chapel has pleasingly graced the Sussex landscape since 1868 from its elevated position overlooking the River Adur and out to sea.
The chapel is a stunning example of Gothic revival architecture.
Its nave reaches up over 90ft to the apex of the vault.
In the past, I’ve had the good fortune to tour the building.
Highlights include the Rose Window with over 30,000 pieces of stained glass.
It has a 32-foot diameter and is one of the largest in England.
It was dedicated by Archbishop Coggan in the presence of HRH The Prince of Wales in 1978.
In May 2007, Archbishop Desmond Tutu dedicated a stained-glass window in memory of Bishop Trevor Huddleston, a pupil at Lancing in the late 1920s.
Internal features include the stall canopies, the brass lectern, bronze candlesticks and fine tapestries.
Lancing College was founded in 1848 by Nathaniel Woodard.
It was the first of several schools he established as part of the Woodard Corporation and is today an independent coeducational secondary school.
The chapel usually welcomes visitors, but is currently closed due to prevailing circumstances.
One of my earliest recollections is travelling over the iconic Old Shoreham Toll Bridge in my Dad’s Humber Sceptre.
Back in the 1960s the charge was sixpence to cross the wooden bridge over the River Adur from Lancing to Shoreham.
Nowadays, juggernauts whizz by just to the north on a modern flyover.
It’s astonishing to comprehend the bridge was once the main route over the river to Brighton and beyond until 1968.
With the sun setting over the river and light aircraft taxiing from the runaway, it’s time for Poppy and me to fly home to roost after our most pleasurable day out in jaunty Shoreham-bysea. ■