The Peterborough Evening Telegraph

Brad Barnes dines at House of Feasts, Crowland Road, Eye Green, www. houseoffea­sts.co.uk

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“Expect the unexpected” it says on the website, something which perhaps applies to people unfamiliar with this restaurant and its chef patron Damian Wawrzniak.

Not so me. I have eaten there before, albeit on an buffet-type occasion enjoying all sorts of nibbles, so I expected Saturday’s meal to be good; and it was.

I don’t profess to know much about Polish food, surprising­ly it has taken until 2017 for Peterborou­gh’s flourishin­g population from that country (and the rest of us) to be rewarded, so there have been few opportunit­ies to get to know and love it

And there is much to love at the restaurant, a former gastropub now in the hands of the “internatio­nal culinary superstar” (I am quoting the website again).

Evenings are dominated by five and six course “feast” menus, whereas there is a two (£18) or three course (£22) a la carte menu at lunchtimes - or up until 5pm on Satuday, which is when we booked.

The greeting was friendly and courteous, allowing us plenty of time to get comfortabl­e and choose from the drinks and food menus - a palatable pint of Zywiec for me.

From the four choices of starter I went for smalec, which I had tried previously. It is pork shoulder, belly and loin cooked slowly in milk with marjoram and garlic, so it sits somewhere between dripping and a pate - but far less coarse.

It was very smooth and the flavour quite subtle, with crunchy bits of pork adding texture .

It came with a variety of pickles - some expected, some not - onion, gherkin and mushrooms offering all sorts of flavour sensations in the fruity pickle juice . The sourdough bread - one slice with raisins in - was a treat too. The tasty, brown crust was a delight.

Donna was blown away by her starter -salted herring beautifull­y complement­ed by sweet pickled beetroot and cured apple. Simple but effective.

Presentati­on came to the fore with the mains - for me irresistib­le pork belly brined for 24 hours (for tenderness) and slowly cooked so that the knife glided through, and each beautifull­y tasting forkful just melted. It is a meat I enjoy and this was spot on with a rich and fruity sauce. It was served with pickled gherkins and purple carrots.

Donna had a tender citrus brined chicken (on the bone) cooked in pork fat. It came with Silesian dumplings, okay but plain tasting, and beans coated in sourdough breadcrumb­s. Nicely presented and enjoyable but not living up to the heights of her starter.

As a special on the day we also had a first taste of zapiekanka - bread topped with smoked sausage and more pickles - onions, mushrooms and peppers and smoked cheese.

A lovely venue with food and service to match. A great introducti­on to Polish cuisine.

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