Brad Barnes has lunch at The Bombay Brasserie in Broadway, Peterborough tel 01733

I am no fan of “buffet” restaurants, and for that reason only I haven’t mourned the recent loss of Jimmy’s, Ba Shoh, or Dim Sum Inn from the city centre.

But, I have heard nothing but good things about the offering on Sunday lunchtimes at that Peterborough institution The Bombay Brasserie.

Owner Rony Choudhury has been delighting city diners for the best part of 40 years, so he must know what he is doing, right? Well, yes.

We booked for 1pm and it is a good job we did, with some big parties being catered for, and people already waiting for tables.

We were shown to our table and when our drinks order was taken, given a run through of how things work.

First up, poppadoms and pickles arrived. Standard fayre.

We were given time to tuck in before a tray of hot pakora - aubergine, onion and pepper - arrived. Not too crisp nor at all greasy, and once again enjoyable with a punchy chilli dip.

This was closely followed by a sizzling hotplate loaded with chicken wings, meaty with a very nice marinade flavouring, and tasty lamb shish kebabs, on a bed of onions.

So far, so good. But now for the buffet - the self-serve element which can be offputting.

Well, the two varieties of rice on offer had just been replenished and were as fresh as you like.

Of the four curries on offer, between us we tried the chicken tikka masala (a big hit with the kids), the chicken balti and “staff special” the lamb handi - meat on the bone with lentils. Great sauces and plenty of tender meat to be had.

A cauliflower dish was the pick of the side dishes on offer, and a fresh naan delivered to the table made those sauces even more enjoyable.

For £10 ahead (under 4s free) there were absolutely no complaints.