Versatile leek is just soup-er

hat a difference a year makes. This time last year we were still reeling and shivering from the Beast from the East, with Storm Emma swiftly on its heels.

Twelve months on, and we’ve had a February miniheatwave, record temperatures and a blossoming of climate change interviewees on the news.

Certainly, Nature seems to be sold on an early spring. Catkins are in full bloom, trees are budding, butterflies are fluttering, and in our garden a pair of amorous long-tailed tits have flirted, pledged vows and set up a nestbox together. All this before the end of February. I can’t help but feel they could be in for the

Wcold shock of a late wintery blast. Sunny it may be, warm it is not, and it’s leek that are in season, not salads. Along with sprouts, leeks seem to be a bit of a Marmite vegetable – you either love them or loath them. A member of the allium family, leeks are cousins of onions, garlic, shallots and chives. Their flavour is milder than onion, but not as pungent as garlic.

As the Welsh national symbol, the far older leek has been somewhat usurped by the younger interloper, the daffodil. From somewhere lost in legend, it is said Cadwaladr, King of the Britons, in a 7th century battle against the Saxons, asked his troops to attach a leek to their uniform so they could be identified in the melee. And so the leek survived as the first emblem for another 1,200 years, until replaced by the far more buttonhole-friendly daffodil.

For many, leeks go no further in the kitchen than leeks in cheese sauce and the tops into the stockpot. They are, however, every bit as versatile as you might expect from a cousin of onion and garlic. They are great in stir-fries, raw and finely sliced in salads, and a must in any winter stew. They are also one half of one of our great traditional soups, leek and potato. You may have a preference for the chunky leak and potato, or perhaps you prefer the smooth version. This recipe is a bit of both. The crouton is an optional extra, but adds an extra layer of flavour and texture. It’s unashamedly a winter dish and I’ve a hunch we’ve not seen the last of winter just yet.

LEEK AND POTATO SOUP WITH CHEESY LEEK CROUTON

Ingredients

2 leeks

4 medium potatoes 500ml chicken/veg stock 300ml milk

½ tsp cumin

Method

Finely slice the leeks and potatoes into small pieces. Gently fry in a large pan until the leeks are soft. Stir in the cumin and add the stock and milk. Season with salt and black pepper.

Bring to the boil and simmer until the potato is soft. With a slotted spoon remove a quarter of the vegetables. Blitz the remainder until smooth and add back in the pieces of leek and potato. Cook for a further 2 minutes, check seasoning and serve.