The Press and Journal (Aberdeen and Aberdeenshire)
TREATS IN STORE AT ICONIC EATERY
The Esslemont
38 Union Street, Aberdeen AB10 1BD
01224 634815 theesslemont.co.uk
Price: £68.50
There is no doubt the north-east is flooded with spectacular cafes, restaurants and bars. But I must confess, The Esslemont, based in the former Esslemont and Macintosh building on Union Street in Aberdeen, has always been up there as one of my favourites.
It exudes style and historic character, with the interiors taking inspiration from the venue’s past as the iconic store.
It had been a lengthy 15 months since I last dined at The Esslemont, due to the ongoing coronavirus restrictions. So when I say I was counting down the days until my most recent outing, I really mean that.
I was able to secure a booking for my boyfriend and me to stop by on a sunny Friday evening.
Arriving at our designated time slot, we were greeted by a member of staff and taken to our table for two – masks on and all – before being informed of all the coronavirus safety procedures in place.
The restaurant was just how I left it, and the more time we spent sitting contemplating our food and drink orders, the more excited I felt.
THE FOOD
I requested one of my favourite tipples – a pornstar martini – while my dining companion opted for an ice-cold beer. As soon as our drinks arrived, the pair of us placed our food orders.
A seafood main was definitely on the cards for me, so I steered clear of any starters that fell into that category. The haggis bon bons caught my eye straight away.
Encased in a crunchy golden shell was a punchy and peppery haggis ball that was oaty, yet creamy, in texture.
Each bon bon was nestled upon a dollop of Arran mustard and whisky mayonnaise, which was light and subtle in flavour.
Red onion chutney brought everything together and added a nice level of sweetness to the dish, while an apple salad provided some acidity.
To start, my dining partner decided on the smoked salmon and local crab timbale, served with avocado cream, grapefruit, cucumber, fennel and a dill citrus dressing.
My boyfriend pointed out the fresh taste of the salmon casing, which had a distinctive smoky flavour and silky texture. He peeled away the layer of cold fish to a light and delicious salmon and crab tartar. Again, the ingredients were evidently fresh with delicate flavours.
And speaking of delicate flavours, the same could be said for the other components – excluding the sharp dressing, which contrasted well with the other ingredients.
Everything on the plate had its own part to play, which is something my boyfriend and I have always said The Esslemont manages to achieve.
The atmosphere in the restaurant was buzzing. There were couples, families and friends meeting up and, by the looks of things, enjoying their dining experience just as much as we were. Less than 10 minutes later after finishing our starters, we spotted our mains.
Getting stuck right in, I went for the pan-seared black cod, while my boyfriend requested the lamb rump.
The lamb was accompanied by fried potato gnocchi, fine beans, roast garlic pesto and lamb jus. I knew after watching him take the first bite that he loved it.
Coating each slice of lamb with a thin layer of pesto and jus, he said the meat was tender and rich in taste, just like the jus. The pesto added an earthy flavour into the mix, providing a nice contrast.
As for the gnocchi, there were only three on the plate and they were definitely one of the highlights of the meal.
Each one was crispy on the outside and light and fluffy in the middle. We usually expect gnocchi to be dense and more on the stodgy side, but they couldn’t have been further from that in this case.
The beans, fresh with a slight crunch, were lovely too.
My dish was equally delicious. The cod was plentiful, cooked superbly and flaked away with ease. Bedded on a squid, chorizo and cannellini bean cassoulet, the fish had absorbed the aromatic stewlike mixture, making for a flavoursome combination.
The slices of chorizo had a deep smoky flavour to them and (to my delight) weren’t overly spicy, while the squid was mild and slightly sweet.
As a side, we enjoyed a bowl of crispy sweet potato fries. Seasoned well, they tasted divine dipped in my leftover cassoulet.
Unable to manage a dessert, the pair of us made our way out of the restaurant to enjoy the rest of our evening.
COATING EACH SLICE OF LAMB WITH A THIN LAYER OF PESTO AND JUS, HE SAID THE MEAT WAS TENDER AND RICH
THE VERDICT
Reflecting on our recent experience at The Esslemont, my boyfriend and I were wowed by the attention to detail of every dish and its presentation.
However, in the usual fashion, our food wasn’t the only star of the show during the restaurant visit, but also our server who could not have been more welcoming, helpful and friendly throughout.
I am yet to come across a member of staff that fails to hit those marks at The Esslemont.
A huge thank you to the team for maintaining their high standards in all areas – including the food, drinks and service – despite the challenges of the past year.
Bravo The Esslemont, bravo!