FAMED FORTRESS

DUNNOTTAR CASTLE, STONEHAVEN, ABERDEENSHIRE

The ruins of Dunnottar Castle are an arresting sight, standing like a row of broken teeth on a rocky headland against the dramatic backdrop of the North Sea. This spectacular medieval fortress, once the stronghold of the powerful Earls Marischal, has played an important role in Scotland’s history for more than 1,000 years with links to William Wallace, Mary, Queen of Scots and Oliver Cromwell.

The buildings still standing are mainly from the 15th and 16th Centuries, but the site is believed to have been fortified since Pictish times. The castle was bought by Lord and Lady Cowdray in 1919 and their restoration work has kept it open to the public to this day.

The castle is the highlight of an easy short circuit of coastline and woodland walking from the pretty harbour town of Stonehaven that is perfect for a short winter day.

The town’s Market Square is the start point, a narrow lane leading down to the boardwalk along the seafront which is adorned by metal models of various boats and ships and a polished mini lighthouse.

A signed right-turn leads to the harbour and the cobbles of Shorehead. Ignoring the lure of a refreshments stop at the famous Ship Inn, I turned off into another lane and then took the steps which head up on to the Bervie Braes.

As a former regular traveller on this stretch of road, it seemed strange to find it now traffic-free. The views down to the harbour were still as refreshing, though.

When the old road turned to the right, I left it and went straight ahead on a path between fences heading along the clifftops. After a short distance, a metal gate on the right gave access to Black Hill for the short walk up to the war memorial.

Designed by local architect John Ellis and unveiled in 1923, the memorial is in the form of a ruined Greek temple with the names of First World War battles etched into the lintels. It is surrounded by memorial seats and benches and there is a peace and solemnity befitting such an important spot.

The distant ruins of the castle now accompany you along the clifftop path, the drama increasing with every bracing onward step. There are several fine photo points along the grassy clifftops, and it’s worth carrying on past the entrance and then round to the left for a different view.

The castle is open most days, but it can be closed at short notice due to weather conditions, so it’s worth checking before you go, and please note that only card payments are being accepted at the moment.

If you are wanting to leave the castle for another day, take a right at the entrance and head out past the car park and on to the road.

Another right and a quick left take you along a quiet minor road which veers close to the busy A92 for a short spell before leading out to the A957.

Care is needed crossing here, but there is a walkway on the opposite side which is followed uphill and into the entrance for Dunnottar Woods. There are plenty of path options, including a circular route, but I stuck close to the burn on the lower paths.

This led to the Shell House, a curious little beehive brick folly, originally decorated inside with hundreds of seashells as part of a garden feature built by Lady Eleanora Kennedy for her children in the early 19th Century.

From here, the path continues gently to the edge of the wood before emerging into the streets of Stonehaven for the short walk back to the centre.

ROUTE

1 From Market Square, cross main road (B979) and head up Market Lane opposite (signed Dunnottar Castle). Turn right at end of lane on to seafront boardwalk.

2 Follow east and just before reaching car park, turn right at signpost leading to harbour. Head along cobbled street (Shorehead) then turn right up Wallace Wynd (sign) and then left heading uphill on lane between houses.

3 At top of lane, climb steps and follow path going left to join Bervie Braes (old road) with good views over harbour and town.

4 When road bends right, go straight ahead on path between fields. Make short detour right through metal pedestrian gate to war memorial on Black Hill.

5 Return to path along cliffs and follow to spectacular ruins of Dunnottar Castle.

6 Unless planning to visit castle (admission fee) turn right to reach car park and continue out to minor road.

7 Turn right and after short distance turn left up minor road and follow out to A957.

8 Cross with care and turn left on pavement heading uphill, then take right turn into Dunnottar Woods car park.

9 Follow path north-east through trees (choice of paths but stay close to burn) until it emerges in housing estate for short walk back through streets to start.

Alan Rowan is a well-known author and walker. You can follow his regular mountain adventures at munromoonwalker.com

SCENIC: A low-level circuit of coastline and woodland to suit all ages.

Dunnottar Castle has played a key role in Scottish history.

The First World War memorial.