The Press and Journal (Inverness, Highlands, and Islands)
STARRY-EYED ATTHELODGE
David Knight made the short journey from Aberdeen to Banchory to sample the delights of the newly refurbished Banchory Lodge hotel
Atrip down the driveway of Banchory Lodge hotel leads us to a destination light years away from our normal stressed-out lives, but it is hard to pick which star shines brightest in this jewel on Royal Deeside.
Stretching out on a four-poster bed in one of its stylish refurbished bedrooms could be one, or the mesmerising view of the River Dee swishing past just yards away. Maybe it is the fabulous food or super-attentive service from the friendly staff.
These are four stars for starters. It just so happens that “The Lodge” now has four stars for real – it is brimming with pride after being handed coveted four-star status by Scottish tourist bosses, and a “Taste our Best” award for sourcing local produce. This is a fitting reward for huge investment and a labour of love by new owners, who have transformed this much-loved landmark over the past few years.
The project began with the bars, dining rooms and public areas being given a stunning makeover in the main house, along with the six-room Cobbleheugh building which sits separately from the main hotel and is a magnet for wedding, shooting and fishing parties (the latter attracted by plentiful salmon nearby). It is easy to see why, with its own lounge, snug and private dining area supplied from the main building close by.
The second half of last year saw 22 rooms in the main hotel receive a sparkling refurbishment, creating a stylish and elegant theme throughout. They pay homage to country-house tradition, but incorporate ultra-modern sleek bathrooms – and a dash of amusing quirkiness with a few little surprises. Original pieces of furniture have been used for effect, including four-poster beds here and there and intricately carved and luxuriously finished headboards.
Remember those old-fashioned black telephones from days gone by? Retro versions of these in every room remind you of the fusion of tradition and quirkiness, but I resisted the urge to pick one up and dial “Whitehall 1212” for Scotland Yard.
What is the key to their success? Well, let us start with the bedroom key itself. I liked the fact we actually had a key – I mean a proper key, not one of those annoying plastic cards that go into a door slot and often don’t work. You know the sort of thing you see in other hotels where you almost have to act like a safe-cracker to get into your room, with a stethoscope to both ear and door and loads of patience to make that light turn green above the door lock. None of that nonsense here, I am happy to say.
Another thing that struck us was that the rooms were not only warm, but we could control the temperature to suit ourselves. How often do you go into a hotel and feel it is too warm or too cold? It all seems out of your hands, with some unseen force controlling the heat or switching it off altogether. Here, you are very much in control to suit your own comfort levels.
We dropped into Banchory Lodge one Friday lunchtime for a 24-hour stopover. It is easy to get to and a short distance from the centre of Banchory itself, where there is plenty to see and do.
After pulling on to the spacious car park, an amazing view of the River Dee gurgling away close by and rolling hills in the background have you in their spell. You can see, and almost hear, the famous Falls of Feugh and its leaping salmon a short distance along a small tributary opposite. Salmon fisherman were dotted about, wading in to try their luck, to complete an idyllic
scene. With the listed Georgian house Banchory Lodge reclining elegantly yards from the river bank, it really is picture-postcard material.
We were guided to a prized table in the main dining room for lunch, with an uninterrupted view of the glorious scene outside. They pride themselves on the food here (“we are a restaurant with rooms”) and we enjoyed delicious lentil and smoked ham-hock soup with a sandwich – but what a sandwich. They were open sandwiches, piled with mouth-watering slices of tender local beef for my wife, on sourdough with fries, and for me two small mountains of prawns on slices of Balmoral bread, with crisps. At another table, a family group of three were enjoying an early afternoon tea full of smaller dainty sandwiches and scones. By the time we had finished lunch, I was worried we had not left enough room for dinner, but we had the afternoon to work it off by exploring the beautifully refurbished bedrooms.
Ours was on the ground floor to the side of the main entrance looking out towards that wonderful view. We could walk through the doors on to our own private section of patio outside.
We discovered that a wooden floor had been chosen in this and other ground-floor rooms for practical purposes – this is a dog-friendly hotel, but it also fits perfectly with the traditional theme. Our sleek modern bathroom was huge (and pleasantly warm, I hasten to add), with a large shower, two wash basins and a bath, with the option of soft lighting. The star of the show, however, was our beautiful four-poster bed in the main room.
It was time for dinner, but not before a few drinks at the original oak bar, which is a striking carved feature from end to end. It was busy with diners, including families, enjoying bar meals from the same main menu.
Our drinks were carried through and it was time to immerse ourselves in the splendid food again. I must pick out the Camembert baked cheese starter, with sourdough crispy crostinis to scoop out every delicious mouthful, and magnificent monkfish main course, with crispy gnocchi and peas and bacon. Soft lighting in the dining room created a relaxing atmosphere and, while it was busy with guests, it was all very convivial and friendly. Needless to say, we slept like logs wrapped up in cosy peace and quiet all around.
The sun was shining the next day, so we threw open the doors, sat inside and basked in the rays which flooded through, while enjoying coffee. We had to drag ourselves away from The Lodge.
Like small children, we looked for every little excuse to delay the inevitable for a few minutes here and there.
Breakfast was another gem, packed with everything you would wish to see on a country-house table, with waiter service for the hot dishes. They had run out of strawberries, but the attention to service was such that they quickly re-stocked them when my wife mentioned it in passing.
I have lots of fond memories of our stay, but I can’t stop thinking about my two poached eggs with smoked salmon and brown toast for breakfast for some reason – bliss.
The roots of Banchory Lodge’s revival as a modern hotel began with former owners, the Jaffray family, who bought it after seeing an advert in the P&J in 1966.
But the current owners are taking it to another level as a new era beckons.
Their mighty four stars are a shining credit to them.
HOLIDAY FACTS
• Banchory Lodge, Dee Street, Banchory, AB31 5HS. Telephone 01330 822625 or visit www.banchorylodge.com