RICHMONDUPON THAMESTOIRAQ

Ispent a lovely week in London, catching up with old friends and walking almost 28 miles over two days with new friends. Based in leafy, beautiful Richmond Upon Thames, I stayed with my dear friend, Victoria, and her daughter, Ava. With Ava’s 10 birthday coming up, we visited her favourite bookshop which really was full of old-world charm. I told Ava she could choose any book she wanted. It seemed she had read half the books in the shop already, so mum went off shopping and left us to it. I think Ava could have stayed in there all day. Me too.

Iraq. Just saying the word out loud is scary. What springs to mind? Saddam Hussein, Iraq wars and the fight against so-called Islamic State. The Iraqi people have suffered untold horrors, but none more so than the Kurds. I was headed to Kurdistan, “independent” in all but name, it’s part of Iraq and borders Iran on one side and the blood bath that is Syria on the other.

I actually had planned to go at the end of 2017, but the airspace was closed by Baghdad for political reasons. Now re-opened, but still with no idea what the official line was on entry requirements, I had a

“I’m in Iraq for goodness sake!”

I said to myself. I then laughed, I don’t know why. I don’t have a bucket list, I’m living it now”

plan B and C in place in case somewhere along the line, I was denied entry. I was travelling to Iraqi Kurdistan without a visa.

Islamic State fighters held control of cities such as Mosul until only last year. I knew I had to be very careful indeed where I went.

I see that there is a documentary on the BBC about an ex-soldier, his return to Iraq and then travelling around the country. I checked out the details, it looks good, I will definitely watch it when I get the chance. I mulled over my thoughts: “Ah, how lovely it would be to travel with the backing of the might of the BBC behind me. All expenses paid, all-singing all-dancing insurance, support team, researchers, producers, cameraman, on-theground logistic support, interviews planned in advance, probably an armed guard in certain parts of Iraq.” Then I thought, no, I’ll do it the only way I can, on my own, with no back-up. I may not be able to bring you aspects of Iraq that this guy will, but what I can promise, if I get in, is a genuine as-it-comes report on life in Kurdistan today. I have absolutely nothing planned in advance and have no contacts there. I certainly don’t have a team of professionals around me to help. I simply plan to just get out in among it all and find my stories.

But first, I’ve got to get myself there. OK, let’s do this.

Erbil, and left, security everywhere