The Press and Journal (Inverness, Highlands, and Islands)
Carol Brown samples the wines of Argentina, and gives her top picks
Carol Brown gets a taste of Argentina’s best, without having to leave Scotland, and finds some exciting wines from an industry still evolving
Mansfield Traquair in Edinburgh was the stunning setting for a recent Wines of Argentina wineries roadshow.
The event saw 23 wineries and their representatives come together to showcase their wines, and for me this was a great chance to catch up on the latest trends in Argentinian wines.
Those trends include research into new geographical indications (GIs) including looking at smaller, more specific areas, villages and also taking into account soil composition.
Mendoza is still the largest growing region, and within Mendoza are emerging, often high altitude, sub-regions.
There is also some development in cooler Patagonia and Atlantic-influenced areas closer to Buenos Aires.
As far as wine making goes, there is a move towards using less oak, and this was certainly noticeable when I think back to a Wines of Argentina trade tasting I went to a few years ago.
Earlier picking of grapes helps retain acidity in the wines while keeping alcohol levels in check, and there has been an increase in organic and biodynamic farming.
Some producers are using concrete and clay fermenters instead of stainless steel, which is the more expensive to keep cool.
European brand ambassador Phil Crozier led a couple of enlightening masterclasses: The White Wine Revolution and The Case for Cabernet Franc – not that I have to be persuaded on that as I think Cabernet Franc is such an under-rated variety.
Here is a selection of some of the wines to give you a taste of the diversity on offer.
Colome Torrontes 2019, Salta
The aromatic Torrontes variety is seen as Argentina’s signature white grape, and this one hails from the northern high altitude province of Salta.
The Colome winery sits 2,200 metres above sea level.
This is a lovely, pure example. Fragrant, floral with grapefruit, lime and melon scents, it’s refreshing, lingering and dry with tangy grapefruit and fleshy peach.
Torrontes is always a good Thai or Chinese food-wine pairing. Exel Wines, Perth, £11.70 (2018 vintage); Fountainhall Wines; Aitken Wines.
Riccitelli Blanco De La Casa 2019, Uco Valley, Mendoza
This was one of a number of good white blends I tried.
Sourced from three vineyard areas – some as high as 2,000 metres – Blanco De La Casa blends Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and old vine Semillon to make a blossom and lime, apples and pears scented, dry fresh and lively white with grapefruit, pear and mineral hits on the taste. RRP £22.49, corkingwines.co.uk; greatwinesdirect.co.uk
Susana Balbo Signature White Blend 2017, Uco Valley, Mendoza
The Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Torrontes grapes for this fresh, zesty and long-lasting white are grown in Paraje Altamira, the first GI based on soil type, in this case chalk.
It’s so fragrant with layers of citrus and pink grapefruit and ripe melon.
The minerality is there on the taste. RRP £19.75, Selfridges.
Kaiken Obertura Cabernet Franc 2017, Uco Valley, Mendoza
This is a lovely, unoaked expression of Cabernet Franc.
Think herbaceous, green pepper scents with spice, liquorice and blackcurrant.
Full bodied with structured tannins and dark berries, Obertura is elegant and well balanced. RRP £29.99, Fountainhall Wines Aberdeen; Aitken Wines Dundee; Exel Wines Perth.
Andeluna Pasionado Cabernet Franc 2017, Uco Valley, Mendoza 2016
Cabernet Franc is considered the signature grape of the Andeluna winery and they were one of the first estates to champion the grape in the Uco Valley.
Pink pepper and spice mingle with fragrant red berry aromas and juicy red berries kick in on the taste.
Another elegant and well-balanced red. £33.61, corkingwines.co.uk
Altos Las Hormigas, Colonia Las Liebres Bonarda Clasica 2017, Mendoza
Bonarda is the second most planted red variety in Argentina.
Growing began in the Cuyo region in the late 19th Century when it was bought to Argentina by immigrants.
Organic and unoaked, this is perfumed and fresh with spice and ripe blueberry notes.
Well-balanced dark berries lead to a long finish. RRP £11.99, Fountainhall Wines; Aitken Wines, Exel Wines.
Masi Tupungato, Passo Doble 2017, Uco Valley, Mendoza
Masi wines are long established in the Valpolicella region of Italy and have taken their skills to Argentina.
This organic blend of Malbec, with 15% Corvina, uses the appassimento winemaking method where grapes are dried, concentrating flavours.
Fragrant with warm spices and dried fruit, this is full, rich and ripe with subtle oak and concentrated dried fruit flavours. £10.79, www.winedirect.co.uk
Trapiche Iscay 2012, Maipu and Uco Valley, Mendoza
Malbec is Argentina’s signature red grape and the most widely planted.
Here, 30% old vine Cabernet Franc is co-fermented.
It’s perfumed with savoury and spice notes alongside ripe blueberry.
Totally in tune, full bodied and elegant with integrated tannins, oak and pepper spice. £25.30, Exel Wines, Perth.
To find out more about wines from Argentina, head to winesofargentina.org/en A WES Wines of Italy one-day workshop is planned for Aberdeen on Saturday November 23.
For details visit wineuncorkededucation.co.uk