The Press and Journal (Inverness, Highlands, and Islands)
Heavenly dining at a newly-converted kirk
Aspire Restaurant
Seafield Terrace, Portsoy, Aberdeenshire, AB45 2QB 01261 842983 aspire-restaurant.co.uk Price: £84.90 for two starters, two mains, two desserts, one cocktail and two soft drinks
Seeing new life breathed into derelict buildings has always brought me so much joy, particularly when that new use is focused on food. While scrolling through my Facebook feed, I discovered that a new restaurant was opening in Portsoy – spotting images showcasing the village’s former kirk going through a substantial renovation.
I quickly discovered well-known Portsoy entrepreneur Jill Christine Mair was behind the exciting project.
We spoke about what the offering would include, along with the reasoning behind her eagerness to open a restaurant in the area. Jill’s words included: “Aspire will put Portsoy on the map.”
I waited patiently for the business to open its doors in January and, once it did, it was always in the back of my mind.
My boyfriend Josh and I finally secured a date to visit last month. The main question was, would it live up to our expectations?
ASPIRE RESTAURANT
We visited on a Sunday. The sun was shining and the village centre was bustling. It was a sight to see.
There isn’t parking on-site at Aspire Restaurant, but finding a spot nearby was straightforward.
The restaurant is equally as impressive outside as it is on entering. Inside it features high ceilings and an inviting white, grey and lime green colour palette.
We were seated and awaited our drinks. I requested a Diet Coke while Josh went for a strawberry daiquiri. Had I not been on driving duties, the espresso martini would have had my name on it.
Complimentary canapes made their way to the table shortly after. These are a rarity in north-east restaurants, but
when they are on the cards my mood is instantly heightened.
One of the canapes consisted of two circular cheese biscuits sandwiching a sweet chilli sauce. Their diameter was no bigger than that of a golf ball.
Buttery and light in texture, with a slight crisp, the biscuits melted in the mouth and had a tangy flavour. Cheddar was the most predominant ingredient.
The sticky sauce was thicker than anticipated, which I loved. Had it been a runny mixture, the bake as a whole would have proved messy. The sauce worked perfectly with the biscuit – making for a nice sweet and savoury balance.
Talking of sweet and savoury, the second canape nailed this combination as well.
Two cocktail sticks – one for each of us – held two miniature sausages wrapped in bacon.
The sausages themselves were herby and soft while the bacon was incredibly crispy – just as we like it.
They were topped with a drizzling of maple syrup, which added a lovely honey-like taste.
THE FOOD
Josh was clearly enjoying his daiquiri and had just about polished it off when our starters arrived.
His traditional prawn cocktail (£8.50) comprised salad topped with prawns and, of course, a pale pink Marie Rose sauce.
The sauce was smooth, tangy and had a subtle spiciness, while the salad – sliced peppers, tomatoes and lettuce – was crisp and refreshing. The quality of the seafood was second-to-none and this continued throughout our meal.
For me, it was the Cullen skink (£7.50). The sheer scale of my bowl was enough to make my starter a winner. Hefty chunks of succulent smoked haddock, potatoes and onions featured in the soup.
Brown bread was served alongside it, which I used to soak up the creamy mixture, with its nice level of saltiness.
I can safely say that Aspire Restaurant now serves my favourite Cullen skink!
Josh and I then admired the interior again. I’m delighted that Jill decided to retain the original stained glass windows.
Like the starters, our mains arrived beautifully presented and piping hot.
I waited a moment or two to give my green Thai salmon curry (£16.95) the chance to cool down a little. Lemongrass, lime and peppercorns were the predominant flavour profiles in the silky concoction.
The fish was even more delicate in my main than it was in my starter, which I didn’t think would be possible. It was buttery, citrusy and flaked away with ease, while the sliced onions and peppers added a subtle chew to the earthy dish.
I CAN SAFELY SAY ASPIRE NOW SERVES MY FAVOURITE CULLEN SKINK!
I proceeded to add my accompanying coconut rice to the curry bowl and used the prawn crackers as a scoop to ensure I could enjoy each component in one bite.
Josh’s main received equal amounts of praise. He opted for the chicken supreme stuffed with haggis (£18.95).
The chicken was soft and wrapped in streaky bacon, which added a delicate smoky flavour. Teamed with dauphinoise potato, tenderstem broccoli and a whisky cream sauce, each element was a delight and came together to make a stellar dish.
Round two complete, it was time for desserts. I requested the lemon cheesecake (£7.50) and Josh went for the sticky toffee pudding (£7.50).
We simultaneously uttered the word “wow” as we caught sight of them.
My dessert consisted of a crunchy biscuit base topped with a silky-smooth cheesecake mixture. The aromas of lemon were strong, leaving me slightly apprehensive about how sour it would be, but I needn’t have worried.
A generous scoop of vanilla ice cream was served alongside it, as well as a dollop of blueberry compote. This was the star of the show and added a tart element to the plate.
Josh’s sticky toffee pudding was swimming in a pool of rich sauce. The pair of us believe the more sauce the better, so he was thrilled. It was served with a velvety pouring cream – rather than ice cream – as per his request.
THE VERDICT
Aspire Restaurant is currently operating in a soft opening phase with reduced services and menus, but I can’t see it being long until it is open for breakfasts, lunches, fly cups and dinners.
It is clear the food is made with passion. Three cheers for Jill and her team who have built a must-visit restaurant in the village.