Keith Jones reveals the railway story behind the construction of a Harbour of Refuge, a project that included the use of hard labour at a prison yard and quarry and a passenger service for convicts.
A safe haven from the worst North Sea conditions, Keith Jones reveals the railway story behind the construction for a Harbour of Refuge, a 70-year project that included the use of hard labour at a prison yard and quarry, and a passenger service to take convicts between these two sites.
In the mid-19th century the east coast of Scotland was notorious for the large number of ships wrecked and the lives lost every year on its rocky coastline caused by storms that could arise with little warning but much ferocity. At the same time the Admiralty was concerned about the lack of shelter for Naval vessels, a Royal Commission was set up and in 1852 it recommended that a National Harbour of Refuge be built at Peterhead, a busy whaling and fishing port with ambitions to expand. Because of the massive costs, of which two-thirds would be sought from the local harbour board, the project did not proceed. Meanwhile, south of the border major public works were being undertaken using convict labour at locations such as Chatham Dockyard, Dartmoor, Portsmouth, and on the Isle of Portland in Dorset. Following the appointment of a new Board of Commissioners for Prisons in 1877, John Hill Burton, the Scottish representative, noted that although his country contributed to the costs of maintaining convicts, England had the entire benefit as over 600 Scottish prisoners were employed there. The proposal to build a Harbour of Refuge in eastern Scotland was accordingly revived and in 1882 another commission was set up to look at various potential locations from Eyemouth to Wick. Two years later it reiterated that Peterhead Bay would be the most suitable and a site was selected for a new prison to house the potential labour force, this being about 1½ miles south of the town centre. The Treasury gave the go-ahead for the project and the Admiralty appointed Sir John Coode as the first Engineer-in-Chief. The Peterhead Harbour of Refuge Act was approved by Parliament in 1886 and preparations began. According to the traditions of the time, the initial contractors built the first cell block for about 200 men, the perimeter wall and various extraneous buildings, and the inmates would subsequently be employed on completing the remaining two cell blocks and staff housing. On 7 August 1888 the first batch of 20 convicts, all sentenced to a lengthy term of penal servitude, arrived just before noon at Peterhead station. They were met by ‘an immense crowd of all sorts of people, crushing and pushing for a good place’ – a celebrity welcome! The men, accompanied by four warders, had travelled in the Caledonian Railway’s special prison carriage that had been attached to the 7.20am train from Perth to Aberdeen, where it was immediately added to the Great North of Scotland Railway’s 10.15am Buchan line train. Chained together in groups of five, the men, dressed in the standard coarse linen prison uniform of the day, marked with arrows, were taken to their new home by two horse-drawn buses flanked by local policemen and armed guards. This was to become a familiar sight in Peterhead over the ensuing months and years. The reporter for the local newspaper was able to look inside the prison carriage and gave a detailed account of the interior. ‘There was a space in the centre immediately fronting
the door reserved for the warders cushioned and comparatively nice, but at either end of the van where the convicts were stowed, the fixtures had a striking resemblance to a wild beast’s cage in a menagerie - only smaller. Each end has two compartments one on either side of the carriage with a passage in the centre. In each of these compartments five convicts are accommodated, all of course chained, and the chain being fixed to a staple in the centre of the apartment. The front of the compartment is solid wood panels up to the height of three feet after which there are bars to the top of the carriage.’ Incongruously he added the ‘atmosphere of the carriage was warm and comfortable.’ The vehicle dated from 1885 and was of similar dimensions to a Drummond fivecompartment third class carriage, 31ft 6in over buffers. It was dual-braked, steam-heated and, except for the external doors, was windowless. It could carry up to 24 prisoners, for whose convenience urinals were installed at the end of each corridor. In 1890 the North British Railway also built a new prison carriage particularly for convicts being moved to and from Edinburgh, and this too was a regular visitor to Peterhead. It was on a six-wheel chassis, 38ft 6in over buffers and dual-braked. The central doorways accessed two short corridors, one on each side and placed symmetrically, giving access through sliding doors to five narrow cells furnished with a wooden bench seat. The external windows to these cells were shuttered with a stout steel grille when in use. Painted in the standard NBR crimson lake livery, on its bodyside it carried the Royal cypher, originally VR. Upholstered seats for warders were provided at the entrance vestibule, and an additional folding seat in each corridor allowed close supervision if necessary. A small cast iron urinal was located at the diagonally opposite ends of each corridor. The Caledonian Railway’s carriage was upgraded in similar style in 1895, including small, enclosed WC compartments replacing the urinals. It was painted brown and again carried the Royal crown instead of the CR coat of arms. Both were withdrawn soon after the grouping to become service vehicles, after which normal stock would have been used. The Harbour of Refuge proposals entailed building massive breakwaters on each side of the bay, between Salthouse Head on the south and Keith Inch on the north, costing an estimated £750,000; completion was expected by 1920. Material for the works was sourced from Stirling Hill (nowadays Stirlinghill), a few miles away to the south, next to the village of Boddam where there were huge resources of the local pink granite. A railway would transfer the prisoners to and from the quarry, as well as the granite from there to the prison yard and onwards to the breakwater. Built to an extremely high standard, it was ready for use in 1890, by which time one locomotive – Hawthorn, Leslie & Co Ltd 0-6-0ST Victoria (Works No 2138 of 1889) – and 25 side-tipper wagons had been delivered, along with a couple of locally-built stone carriers.
The line was approximately 2½ miles long, laid with heavy flat-bottomed rail of 72lbs per yard and ballasted with granite. It was fully fenced and signalled, with trains worked on the block system from three cabins, one at each end and the third at a passing place, about ¾ mile before the quarry and where there was also a water tank. Emerging from a gate in the prison wall on to the main line connecting the breakwater and quarry, the railway immediately crossed a five-arch viaduct, 220ft long and constructed of granite masonry. It then passed the Glenugie distillery, perhaps reminding patrons of what they were missing in the outside world! There followed a steel girder bridge across the main road to Aberdeen, and there were also two substantial masonry overbridges. The first was north of the passing loop, and the second to its south, at the west end of Lendrum Terrace. Much of the route from then onwards entailed heavy cuttings or was on embankment. The average gradient from prison to quarry was 1 in 76, with a maximum of 1 in 40. There was no connection with the GNSR network, either at Peterhead or at Boddam. The system was referred to in The
Locomotive Magazine in 1900 as a ‘British State Railway’. Although many government establishments throughout Britain had internal railways this was probably the only one with a passenger-carrying operation at the time, built to near main line standards. Work necessary before the project could begin included the construction of a harbour for the barges needed to move rubble for the foundations of the new breakwater. Steam cranes were ordered from Messrs Stothert & Pitt at Bath, two Goliaths for the blockmaking yard and a massive Titan crane for working on the breakwater. The Titan had been tested with a load of 62 tons – it had an arm 100ft in length, counterbalanced by a tank containing 120 tons of concrete, and ran on 32 wheels but could be controlled by a single man in the cab. Delivered by rail to Peterhead station in 1889, in sections weighing less than 12 tons, it was operational three years later, in 1892, having taken 30 men six months to re-assemble. Several smaller steam cranes were also acquired – for the harbour, for breakwater work, and for the quarry. Twin-screw steam-powered hopper barge Thistle was delivered for the project from Messrs W B Thomson’s shipyard, Dundee in 1896 at a cost of £13,000. Inside the prison yard there was a secure compound containing workshops where prisoners would cut granite into suitable sizes for building purposes or assist in the manufacture of concrete blocks. There were 16 sidings here, a two-road engine shed and a station platform. Operation of the railway, construction work on the breakwaters and most of the skilled work was undertaken by civilians, of whom the squad of divers was regarded as the elite as they undertook many dangerous underwater tasks. Starting in October 1890, trains carrying convicts and their accompanying warders left the Admiralty station inside the prison yard at 7.15am and 1pm daily, except on Sundays when no work was carried out. Reflecting the Glaswegian origin of many residents, it was generally referred to as ‘Buchanan Street.’ For most of the year, departures from Stirling Hill were at 11am (known as ‘the diner’ to return inmates for lunch) and at 5pm; there was a later start and earlier finish in winter. Except for a bare platform, there were no facilities or even shelters provided at the stations. Passenger stock initially comprised four four-wheel carriages: a brake van and fifth carriage were added later. The wooden van-type body had central doors and a vestibule, on each side of which were three longitudinal compartments or cells all fitted with lockable
gates consisting of metal bars to nearly roof level. They could hold up to six standing prisoners, 36 per carriage, accompanied normally by two warders. Originally there were no windows in the compartments, only in the doorways, but small barred openings were later provided. There was no continuous brake and it was 1940 before two small fixed wooden stools were provided in each vehicle for staff accompanying the prisoners. This luxury was agreed only because the seats could be fitted at no cost! Trains usually consisted of a brake van and from three to five carriages, all connected by a pull-rope warning system for emergency use. The brake van was available for use by the occasional civilian.
Mineral trains ran as required – there was a large fleet of steel tipper wagons for carrying granite from the quarry to the construction site, and it seems that the bodies were demountable and could be used as a bucket or skip. They had inside bearings and were quite narrow for standard gauge vehicles: because of this the buffers on the locomotives and rolling stock were fitted inwards by about one foot compared with main line stock, and also a few inches lower. Eight-wheel flat wagons were provided to move the concrete blocks from the prison yard to the construction work site, and there were various ancillary wagons and trolleys of different styles. Five 0-6-0 tank locomotives were employed on the line, all carrying names honouring members of the Royal Family: Victoria was first used in 1890, Prince of Wales and Alexandra of 1892, and Duke of York of 1896, followed in 1905 by Edward VII. Victoria and Edward VII were Hawthorn, Leslie & Co Ltd saddle tanks, and the others were standard Hunslet Engine Co Ltd side tanks similar to The Lady Armaghdale that is preserved on the Severn Valley Railway. During World War I, Prince of Wales was sent to work in Orkney, and likewise in World War II Edward VII was transferred to the Admiralty dockyard at Rosyth in Fife. Victoria was scrapped during 1930 but the remainder of the fleet survived until completion of the project, only to be broken up thereafter. All engines except Edward VII had 3ft 4in wheels, 15in x 20in cylinders and weighed about 28½ tons. The 1905-built machine had 3ft 6in wheels and 14in x 22in cylinders. They appear to have been delivered by rail to Peterhead station. The locomotive livery was dark olive green with polished brass fittings, white and red lining and red-backed nameplates – a very smart fleet; carriages and wagons were painted grey. The quarry was at two levels, approximately 190ft and 350ft above sea level. Granite was transported from there, either to the prison yard or the harbour. At the former it was used as aggregate for the production of blocks, cast in wooden moulds using concrete from a continuous mixer; larger pieces of granite about 2ft 6in thick were dressed to provide external facing. At the harbour, rubble was tipped into the barge, which then deposited it along the line of the breakwater to provide the foundations for the concrete blockwork. From 1896 to 1911 an average of 75,000 tons of granite was extracted annually and moved by the railway. However, well over a million tons of granite would have been quarried during the lifetime of the project. Portland Cement for the project was delivered several times annually by rail to Peterhead station.
When finished, the South Breakwater was 2,850ft long, including an 80ft roundel at the end incorporating a lighthouse. In the deepest water, from the base of the foundations to the top the South Breakwater measured 77ft, of which 66ft lay below high-water. The concrete blocks used in its construction were 40-50 tons in weight, were shunted to the work site and then lifted into place using the Titan crane. Progress was slower than anticipated, averaging 130ft per year due to weather, including storm damage, and lack of both convict and civilian labour. As a result of lessons learned in the aftermath of stormy weather, the width of the breakwater was increased from 46ft to 56ft. Work was suspended during winter months, although quarrying and blockmaking continued. The South Breakwater was substantially complete by 1914, allowing resources to be concentrated on the North Breakwater – although shorter, at 1,500ft, this took over 40 years to complete. Preliminary work for the North Breakwater started in 1910 and a separate short and totally self-contained railway line was built to assist with moving the concrete blocks along the breakwater as it extended. One of the locomotives was based here and there were basic facilities, including an engine shed. Two 40-ton Titan cranes were erected here for lifting the concrete blocks. Materials were transferred across the bay by the Thistle, which in 1913 was converted for block carrying. As with many large government projects, the Harbour of Refuge scheme ran massively late and over-budget. Even in its early days the extravagance of the project drew criticism in Parliament, and in 1911 the Treasury withdrew support for the North Breakwater – by now the need for harbours of refuge had been superseded by modern steam-powered warships. This did not go down well in Scottish political circles and early the following year the Treasury was over-ruled and work continued. Geological conditions were different on the north side, and the water was deeper. Concrete foundations averaging 7ft deep were embedded directly into the seabed of rock and boulder-clay, on top of which was built a superstructure of up to 90ft. Although it had been expected that about 450 inmates would work on the project at any one time, numbers were consistently under half that total, with on average 180 free men and 209 prisoners employed, together with prison staff. Shortage of promised convict labour was a major contributory factor to the long-delayed completion, and work was suspended completely from spring 1917 to summer 1919, and construction again ceased for a period during World War II.
One must not forget the human story here. Thousands of men commuted to work on this railway during its 70 year history. Many of those who were incarcerated at Peterhead were victims of circumstance, poverty or greed, and some had gained notoriety through their actions. Work in the quarry was hard and discipline unrelenting, warders carried cutlasses, and three armed guards were deployed to discourage escape attempts. For major transgressions, solitary confinement and even the cat o’ nine tails were possible. Several residents were however, victims of miscarriage of justice – the most celebrated was the case of Oscar Slater, his death sentence for murder commuted to life imprisonment, after 18 years’ incarceration, much of it spent at Peterhead, he was eventually declared an innocent man. James Tinsley, the signalman blamed for the Quintinshill rail disaster of 1915 was sentenced to three years penal servitude, part of which was spent toiling at the Stirling Hill quarry face before he was granted early release, if not a formal pardon. Another legendary character was persistent safebreaker Johnny Ramenski, who escaped five times from outside work parties at Peterhead. His periods of freedom were invariably short, but on release in the early years of World War II he was recruited by the Commandos, where his bravery and skills in working with explosives led to him being demobbed as a hero. Regrettably, after the war he reverted to his previous profession, entailing a further spell at Peterhead. In 1932 George Kynoch, a native of nearby Strichen, serving seven years for armed robbery, made a one-way final journey on the line. Soon after alighting at the quarry station, he and two others attempted an escape – he was shot by one of the armed guards when 20ft up the quarry face and died at the scene. On 27 September 1956 the last block was ceremonially installed to complete the project, with Prince of Wales in attendance. It was 1958 before the railway, plant and equipment had been removed for scrap under the direction of the last resident engineer Lieutenant Colonel W M Littlejohn – 40 years late and millions of pounds more expensive than anticipated. The Harbour of Refuge was never used for its originally envisaged purpose as a naval base but it did immensely improve the prosperity of Peterhead as a
fishing harbour and general cargo port. Since the 1970s the South Breakwater has been used as an offshore oil service base and today both breakwaters are a lasting tribute to the skills and fortitude of all those who contributed to their construction. The carriage bodies were sold to local farmers, and remarkably several survive today. Restored and mounted on a suitable chassis, one is displayed at Maud Railway Museum; another carriage body is on show at Peterhead Prison Museum. When investigating the restoration of the carriage body now at Maud a vicious home-made weapon, a chib, a piece of metal roughly sharpened to a point and ready for use when an opportunity arose, was found concealed in the floor area. Messages and graffiti etched by prisoners on the internal planking were also found, including coincidentally the name ‘Tinsley’.