Splendid isolation!
In words and pictures, Gareth Evans shares the experience of a recent short break with his fiancée in the restored snow huts at Dent, England’s highest main line station.
THE very mention of the SettleCarlisle (S&C) line is likely to invoke a warm, positive feeling – a romantic idyl, far removed from the bustle of modern life. Crossing the ‘roof ’ of England, the route is synonymous with stunning scenery – including the wilderness of the moorland, the spectacular mountain peaks and the charming Victorian railway architecture. It is a combination which resonates with people of all ages and backgrounds – and what better way to take it all in than from the comfort of a railway carriage. We are forever indebted to those who successfully fought British Rail’s well-documented plans to close the Midland Railway’s Anglo-Scottish route.
Having enjoyed numerous journeys on the ‘S&C’ over the years, I was delighted to explore one of the more remote points along the line with my fiancée in mid-August. Sarah and I stayed in one of the old snow huts at
Dent. Small intermediate stations in an area where the sheep appear to outnumber humans could easily be forgotten – but Dent is special. At 1150ft above sea level, it is England’s highest operational main line railway station. Broadly halfway between Leeds and Carlisle, the views are unforgettable.
Background
In autumn 2006, the main station building and snow huts in the old station yard were bought by Robin Hughes, an entrepreneur who is also a surveyor. After refurbishment, the station welcomed its first guests in spring 2007 as a self-catering holiday home business.
At the time of their acquisition by Robin, the snow huts, which had once served as barracks for railway workers, were virtually derelict. Grade II listed, the snow huts are, according to English Heritage: “A rare survival of navvy living quarters; other known examples have been substantially altered.”
The story of his determination against the odds, weather, location and bureaucracy to restore the station building and snow huts to their former glory is told first hand in an engaging style in the Ticket to Dent book.
The main station building, which is alongside the Carlisle-bound platform, is now owned by the Friends of the Settle to Carlisle Railway and is available for holiday lets (see advertisement on p120).
Two of the three snow huts are available for stays at the time of writing; both of which offer slightly different experiences. Situated furthest from the station, Snow Hut One is the larger of the two available and is for weekly breaks from Fridays. Akin to a bungalow, all facilities are provided on the ground floor in open plan configuration – with one end forming the sleeping area with a double bed and shower room, while the other end provides
a living/relaxing area and kitchen.
We stayed in Snow Hut Three from a Thursday to a Sunday, although it can also be booked on a weekly basis from a Thursday. Located nearest the station building, it has an open plan configuration with kitchen/living area downstairs, plus a shower room/WC. In addition to a leather sofa, audio system and TV, there is microwave, ceramic hob, a toaster and a fridge with a small freezer compartment.
Ambience
Upstairs, the bedroom is on a mezzanine deck accessed from a steep staircase, which is almost ladder-like. We slept well in the comfortable bed. To access it, we had to step on a pouffe, then onto the bed and crawl on top of the mattress. We found it best to ‘reverse’ when getting out of bed – it was all part of our ‘adventure’.
Sitting up in bed in the morning, in what is essentially the roof space, we enjoyed soaking up the spectacular views across Dentdale through the upstairs skylight windows. While we are not enthusiastic television viewers, an additional screen is provided upstairs, allowing you to watch your favourite programmes from the comfort of the bed.
In the days prior to our stay, I kept an eye on the forecast on the Met Office website. I noticed that Dent was consistently 10 degrees centigrade cooler than home in Peterborough, so it was prudent to think in terms of trousers rather than shorts, even in the middle of summer – a reminder of Dent’s altitude. While wearing multiple layers was essential outdoors, I was comfortable in a T-shirt indoors – the thick stone walls and insulation appeared to work well. If desired, warmth can be provided by a wood burner, in addition to underfloor heating.
Cleverly designed, the snow huts combine modern comforts with traditional, rustic charm – we found ‘ours’ to be both comfortable and practical.
Sympathetic railway features have been incorporated wherever possible – such as elastic track spikes repurposed as coat and towel hooks; signs from BR carriages – no smoking and feet on seats; and old sleepers used as benches outside the front door and on the patio. If the weather is suitable, the patio is a great spot from which to enjoy your favourite tipple as the sun sets.
There is no broadband internet in the snow huts, while a mobile phone signal is a recent addition. We found the EE signal was faint – good enough to text but probably insufficient to make a call. We discovered we could pick up a 4G signal on the bed. It was just about strong enough to load the www.realtimetrains.co.uk website, helpfully providing access to what was due to operate through the station. The Vodafone signal range appeared to stop near Dent Head viaduct and at Garsdale.
The close proximity of the huts alongside the railway might be viewed as a mixed blessing on the face of it – a dream come true for the die heard enthusiast, but a potential source of irritation by those less passionate about trains.
Rest assured however, the S&C is not the West Coast Main Line, with high-speed trains thundering past every few minutes – it is more of a double-track backwater. We noticed the 30mph speed restriction through the station meant there were no vibrations from the trains – we could almost be forgiven for hardly noticing them when the door was closed. We found the low-speed of the passing trains provided a chance to nip outside to photograph or wave at them, Railway Children-like.
Tranquility
After you arrive at Dent station – by rail or road – it is likely you will be greeted by silence. On this occasion, that is a good thing!
The peace and tranquillity cannot be underestimated. It is spiritual – akin to watching the waves crashing against the shore at the seaside. We found the only noise outdoors of an evening was the sheep, interrupted periodically by cattle on the lower valley slopes.
On another evening, we looked out of the door at 11pm to soak up the atmosphere outside. It was pitch black with an unworldly silence like you may never have experienced. Behind the station, a single-track road winds its way up from the valley floor and climbs to a summit of 1750ft, before dropping down again to Garsdale station – the next S&C station north of Dent. There are no other residences along that road after the old station master’s cottage, which lies at the station’s throat.
As someone who grew up in rural Wales, the tranquillity was not alien to me – if anything, it made me long for ‘back home’.
The snow huts offer a delightful opportunity to ‘get away from it all’ – a relaxed retreat to explore the Dales. Importantly, it can be accessed by rail or car – so a car-free day is easy to do.
We came away from the Dent with no shortage of happy experiences to share with our loved ones. Would we stay there again? Yes! ■