The Scarborough News

A true contender to the area’s culinary crown

- BY BY IAN JOHNSON

When writing a review, i t’s really easy to resort to clichés.

Restaurant reviews in particular are often a magnet for lazy writing, for the scribe to simply turn up, eat, then jot down something about “decadent desserts” and “cosy interiors”.

It’s also really easy to overexagge­rate, and try to turn average fare into something Heston Blumenthal would be proud to have concocted.

But at The Anvil, the ultimate cliché of “a feast fit for a king” is for once appropriat­e.

And it’s not hyperbole to say that The Anvil is comfortabl­y the best restaurant I’ve visited in the Scarboroug­h area.

Located just off the beaten track in Sawdon, the former working forge is a fair drive out, but for foodies, it’s one worth making.

What I loved about it is how unpretenti­ous it is.

As someone who actively loathes the arty side of cuisine, The Anvil is a culinary paradise.

Absent from the not-overly extensive menus are snows and foams.

Instead you have more-than-generous hunks of British meat, such as our group’s main cours- es, which included pan roasted chicken, as well as mine and my carnivorou­s colleague’s daube of beef.

The latter dish was lovingly cooked, and drenched in a heavenly caramelise­d red onion braising juices, with a dollop of buttery, fluffy mash on the side.

That course for me epitomises The Anvil. Nothing on that plate was trying to re-invent the wheel.

It was merely a dish of good, honest food, made with first rate ingredient­s – with every mouthful cooked to near perfection.

And it’s not hyperbole to suggest that, as The Anvil truly is a magnificen­t place to eat.

It’s so magnificen­t that for someone who enjoys picking faults with almost everything, it’s almost frustratin­g not to be able to find more flaws to give this write-up more balance.

A few members of the party commented that the decor wasn’t to their taste, but to revert to a previous cliché, I felt the interior really was cosy.

Upon arrival, we were seated in a beautifull­y old fashioned plush parlour. It felt like it had been airlifted in from a remote Scottish lodge. Warm and very snug, it ticked every box for me – much like my starter did.

After mulling over the cheese and onion souffle, I opted for the aromatic crispy duck.

It was gigantic. I honestly don’t think I’ve eaten a bigger starter, and I’d be surprised if I ever did again.

Garnished with Asian veg, pancakes and plum sauce, again there’s nothing groundbrea­king about it but, boy, does it satisfy.

And the same has to be said for pudding. We selected a range of sweets, including the orange cake, a dish perhaps more likely to be served by your granny for Sunday tea, although I doubt even the most adventurou­s OAP would complement it with scrumptiou­s cinnamon brown bread ice cream and an almond Florentine.

I scoffed down a moreish passion f ruit baked Alaska, which came with a tasty coconut shortbread and a zesty sauce which was perhaps just a tad too sweet.

For around £30 per head for three courses, the food – served impeccably with a smile – really does lay a genuine claim to being the best in the borough. And that’s not hyperbole.

Overall Rating 9

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