On Your Bike
Why not join the Crinan Canal route for an enjoyable, family-friendly summer day out?
A nice family-friendly cycle along the banks of the beautiful Crinan Canal
SINCE 1801, the 14.5km (nine-mile) Crinan Canal has been helping boats travel from the Firth of Clyde to the Inner Hebrides without the lengthy diversion round the Kintyre peninsula. “Britain’s most beautiful shortcut” was looking likely to be a wee bit wet on the drive south from Inveraray, but the clouds breezed past at a fair rate, so it didn’t seem likely to stay put for long.
On the road to Lochgilphead, it felt like I’d gone beyond the limits of daytrippers. I’d started the day with a stop at Arrochar, where the car parks were full and the loch lined with divers, then passed the Loch Fyne Oyster Bar and Inveraray – both were hoaching – but there was hardly a car on the road once past Furnace.
With the rain heavy as I reached town, I hedged my bets and opted for the Forestry Commission car park at Achnabreac. Just up off the road by Cairnbaan, it’s roughly half-way along the trail. If rain proved persistent, it’d just be the trip to Crinan and back, about 13km (8 miles) each way from the car park.
Cairnbaan is also the canal’s highest point at just over 20 metres (66ft) above sea level, which gives you an indication of the amount of climbing involved – it’s a nice easy day out. Whatever your fitness levels, starting in the middle gives you the option of keeping the day short and sweet or completing the full run.
There’s plenty to stop and savour between Cairnbaan and Crinan. Locks to investigate – often in action at weekends – boards with info about history and the local wildlife, and even a bird hide on the edge of Moine Mhor Nature Reserve.
As I rolled off along a paved road past canalside cottages, the rain eased and the residents came back out to potter about the gardens. Soon the path split and the gravel towpath took the high road, before losing a height beside a series of locks.
Every corner turned gave a new sight – brightly painted boats moored up, lock-keepers chatting to passers-by, or quirky cottages perched on the water’s edge with well-loved gardens.
With little resistance from the path, just the persistent crunching from the gravel, take it as quickly or slowly as suits you.
“There’s plenty to stop and savour
Before long, Moine Mhor stretches out to the north and a vast wetland area where you can spot hen harriers, osprey, geese, deer and dragonflies.
The skies are vast and everything feels a bit wild, until you suddenly pop out at the tourist honeypot of Crinan. Views out from here to the Inner Hebrides are glorious on a good day. Whatever the weather there’s a hotel to refuel at or the friendly coffee shop just beside the locks. Bike propped outside, I went in for a mocha and a Lemon and Coconut Slice. They take cards, if you’re short of cash!
Damp from the outward journey, I didn’t fancy hanging around long enough to get a chill, so I threw back my coffee and cake in quick time and stepped outside. The sun was on full beam and the clouds had scurried off to the horizon, making it warm enough to hang around and soak up the seaside atmosphere.
Having made such good progress to Crinan, it seemed only right to complete the journey by heading to the start point at Ardrishaig, especially when there was supposed to be a wee lighthouse at the end.
In all honesty, the stretch to Lochgilphead wasn’t quite as interesting as the other way, and a brisk wind had started to pick up. Looking ahead along the canal, there were patches of choppy water between the smooth stretches, giving advance notice of windy spots.
Nevertheless, progress was quick to the beach at Ardrishaig, where I took a few selfies with Arran in the background before setting out for the final run back towards the van.
The path was a bit busier and being downwind my bell wasn’t catching many people’s attention, so I took the chance to duck off the towpath and join the road for the run home. The edge of the road out of Lochgilphead was a bit lumpy, though, but with hardly any traffic around on a late Sunday afternoon I rode right up the middle of my lane and made it back to the car park not much more than two hours after I’d left it.