Slàinte Mhath
The recent boom the spirit has undergone has found its way full circle back to the historic location of Kinrara…
Your whisky expert finds a gin revolution in the Cairngorms
FROM being the cause of mass catatonia in the 17th century, gin has had a horrible history. Cheap and widely available, “Mother’s Ruin” fuelled drunken devastation in poverty-stricken London.
Some 885km (550 miles) north, in the tranquil surroundings of Kinrara Estate in the shadow of the Cairngorms, the story was altogether different. It was here that Lady Jane Gordon, a beautiful socialite known as the “Empress of Fashion”, held lavish parties during which the spirit would have featured. Up-andcoming artists were invited to perform and it was in the drawing room at Kinrara House that Rabbie Burns first read his poetry to Edinburgh society. Since those heady times, the story of gin has taken many a twist…
In a bid to halt the carnage in London, several Gin Acts were passed in the 1700s, imposing weighty tariffs on producers. Combined with the rising cost of grain – a primary component, along with the juniper berry – many fledgling distillers all but petered out, including those north of the border.
As well documented in these pages, the spirit has rediscovered its sparkle and undergone a renaissance in recent years – and the continuing boom has taken things full circle back to Kinrara. Nestled in 48.5 sq km (18.7 sq miles) of Cairngorm National Park, just outside Aviemore, Kinrara is one of Scotland’s newest craft distilleries. And, to my reckoning, key facets of this new brand offer a timely insight into the fast flowing story of Scottish gin’s evolution in the current day.
“Lady Jane Gordon is reflected in our story – she’s Kinrara’s historical figurehead,” explains Stuart Mcmillan, Kinrara’s director. “It’s the botanicals which set us apart, however.”
Indeed, romantic heritage alone isn’t enough to cut ice in an increasingly competitive market. Accountancy group UHY Hacker Young recently showed the number of distilleries in the UK has risen to 131, double the number that existed in 2012, due to the popularity of artisan gin. And with Scotland accounting for 70 per cent of the UK’S total production, the growth is being hastened by the boom in craft distilleries, like Kinrara.
In short, there are scores of variations, so an eye for detail – to set a new comer apart – is crucial.
“Our gins are developed on ‘Wee Alice’, a 50-litre (11-gallon) copper pot still which is ideal for creating unique spirits,” continues Stuart, a former director of Strathearn Distillery who has a wealth of experience in the spirits industry.
“The estate offers a stunning range of flora and berries that we forage for our gins and mix with carefully sourced botanicals. Once we are happy with the recipes, we move up to our 100-litre (22-gallon) stills for production. The distillation process sees us macerating our botanicals for several hours. Once the stills are full, a long, slow distillation allows us to create a highland dry Scottish gin of the highest standard.”
As well as a solid product, another credential gin producers need to display, if you consider recent history, is bottle. In the late 1980s, for example, Bombay Sapphire’s launch all but provided the spark that would ignite a once dry and dreary category, synonymous with green and dusty bottles. The unusual blue bottle and juniper-light profile attracted a new following. Hendricks’ launch followed a decade later and, complete with apothecary bottle, caught the imagination of trend-setters as far as Los Angeles and New York.
From the Botanist to Harris, aesthetics abound in gin bottles – and the new arrival to the category certainly doesn’t disappoint.
“Specially coloured glass has been selected to reflect clear blue skies, crystal clear water and the snow-capped Cairngorms,” explains Stuart. “The bottle represents the view from distillery over the estate into the Cairngorms – we searched far and wide for someone to produce it.”
That bottle is being produced by experts in Manchester.
In terms of distribution, Kinrara’s focus begins at home.
“We are aiming for Kinrara to be part of the Cairngorm/aviemore experience and working with many hotels and bars in the area,” continues Stuart.
“We’re at the heart of one of the greatest outdoor activity areas on earth, and what better way to round off a day in the mountains than with a spirit that’s been shaped by those mountains.”
Another key facet of gin in the modern day revival is, of course, marketing and Stuart is certainly driving that aspect hard. Yet, beyond the PR, Kinrara provides further concrete evidence that, far from the horrible history of 300 years ago, the current day story of Scottish gin is one of creativity and bright innovation.
And that can only bode well for the future.