Lochaline

Robert Wight savours a delicious taste of Morvern in the wild west! FOOD: I was surprised to find a restaurant of such incredible quality somewhere as remote as Lochaline. It’s a 48km (30-mile) drive – mostly on singletrack – from the Corran Ferry but offered a dining experience to put most high-class eateries in our big cities in the shade. I was hugely impressed – it’s the best of modern European cuisine. We opted for the six-course taster menu that showcases the very finest local and Scottish produce – as well as the considerable talent of head chef Michael Burgoyne. The menu blackboard changes according to what’s in season and available locally. Our “Taste Of Morvern” menu was a culinary tour of one of the most scenic parts of the country. It included local salmon, mackerel from Oban and “Harris cavier” – scrumptious mackerel roe. Then there was bantam liver parfait – easily the best I’ve tasted. Ever. Salt-water poached pollack, Mull scallop, spider crab and Drumloch rarebit was followed by goose fat roasted best end of Blackface with vension chorizo. Desert was Morvern fruit and nut pastry tart with cranachan ice-cream and then Highland buttermilk jelly with homemade Turkish delight. Pure heaven! 10/10 SERVICE: Staff did a tremendous job in a packed restaurant. Knowledgeable, friendly, happy to answer questions and chat about their superb food. 10/10 AMBIENCE: Restaurant floor is divided into two service areas, so even when full it feels intimate. Simple, clean, uncluttered decor. Cosy, relaxed and informal. 9/10 VALUE FOR MONEY: £65 per person for the exquisite six-course taster menu; £45 for the four-course version. Incredible value for the standard of cuisine. 9/10 FACILITIES: Spacious bathroom, very clean and finished to a high standard. Best-quality toiletries. Little individual hand-cloths were a really nice touch. 8/10 www.thewhitehouserestaurant.co.uk