A Clamber In Cowal
Nick Drainey finds magic amid the waves, chill winds and low cloud
THERE is something about catching a ferry which can make a straightforward journey a bit special, almost magical as you swap Tarmac for the tides. The route between Gourock and Dunoon is usually busy with commuters, most huddled in their vans and cars, out of the cold wind which exists even on a calm day on the deck of a moving boat.
Not for me; as an irregular user of watercraft the thrill of being outside, enjoying a different perspective on the hills and glens of Cowal, was too much to resist.
A low sun made silhouettes of Great Cumbrae and Bute, down the Firth of Clyde. Cowal and the sea lochs of Argyll beckoned and the lights of Dunoon, twinkling even at lunchtime in the shortest days, suggested a safe haven.
On previous trips I have spotted porpoises, but in the winter sunlight of this trip my eye was caught by Strone Hill. In itself it is simply a steep-sided bump on the coast, but from the water its conical shape made it appear like an island wedged between Holy Loch and Loch Long.
As the ferry docked and the ramp came down there was a slight sense of disappointment – the adventure was over. But enough of the melancholy, there was a hill to climb and the sunny day promised terrific views – back out to sea and inland, up lochs and over the mountains.
The stretched-out coastal village of Kilmun is easily reached after a scenic drive around Holy Loch, and it’s a good place to look out over the water once more before beginning the easy, if steep, clamber up Strone Hill.
Height is quickly gained, and the views of the Firth dominate. The ferry below looked like an inconsequential dot, rather than a great chugging piece of engineering.
Perspectives also change when looking down the coast of Cowal, with the rolling hills which stretch inland now visible in full, away from the rocky coast.
Above the tree line, an even greater panorama was