The Scots Magazine

Knockendar­roch Hotel

Pitlochry Everything is first class in this Perthshire hotel

- By GARRY FRASER

THE words “luxury accommodat­ion and cuisine” can sometimes trip too readily off the tongue, but when it comes to the Knockendar­roch Hotel in Pitlochry, the phrase is more than merited.

In fact, it doesn’t really do justice to this hotel which is run with meticulous care and precision by Struan and Louise Lothian.

Knockendar­roch dates from 1880 when it was built for an Aberdonian lawyer and many original features remain to this day. It stands on a commanding situation looking west over Pitlochry to the hills of Strathtay. Rooms with a view – and more!

I wasn’t expecting quite such palatial surroundin­gs, the night my wife Sandra, son Graham and I stayed. Clean, stylishly decorated with an ambiance of peaceful relaxation. It’s easy to get carried away, but then you don’t win the Scottish Hotel of the Year 2019 in the Good Hotel Guide without delivering something special.

With Graham being autistic and having a rather constraine­d diet, the hotel was only too happy to cater for his needs. And while he was quite happy with his basic pasta for dinner, Sandra and I were delighted with our meal – and it certainly wasn’t basic!

After pre-dinner drinks and canapes served before a roaring fire in the lounge, the food that followed was straight out of a Masterchef manual.

My scallop starter with chive mash and salsa verde was simply divine while the vigorous nod of approval from Sandra ensured that her carrot, fennel and stem ginger soup was of the same standard.

I couldn’t resist the guinea fowl with pommes dauphinois­e for the main, while across from me the venison loin with mustard mash and parsnip puree looked just as appetising.

With the cheese board for me and a “deconstruc­ted” lemon meringue pie for Mrs F – lemon filling drizzled with a crunchy biscuit base, raspberry sorbet and toasted marshmallo­w – the curtain came down on one of the best meals we’ve ever tasted.

There was a culinary encore at breakfast, different food of course but of a similar standard, cooked to order by Struan and served by Louise. Full Scottish for me – that’s my default breakfast on these occasions – but had I chosen Sandra’s mouthwater­ing portion of eggs benedict, I wouldn’t have been disappoint­ed.

With the “luxury cuisine” taken care of, it’s the accommodat­ion that

 ??  ?? The hill-top splendour of Knockendar­roch
The hill-top splendour of Knockendar­roch

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