More Than Meets The Eye
The picturesque harbour town of Eyemouth has a secret past
EYEMOUTH is a small town just north of the border with England. At first glance it is a quaint, quiet fishing village, but if you scratch beneath the surface you’ll find a dramatic and fascinating history.
The town’s epicentre is the harbour, which has been dated back to the 12th century. As one of the only sheltered areas along the rugged, unforgiving Berwickshire coastline, it has been a haven for sailors and fishermen for hundreds of years.
However, with the growth and development of the harbour came iniquity. The harbour is overlooked by the silhouette of Gunsgreen House. Built in 1753 by a local smuggler John Nisbet, the architecture includes secret hiding places for keeping smuggled goods.
From wine and spirits to tea and tobacco, kilos of goods passed unmarked through the walls of Gunsgreen.
The house is now open as a museum and is entertaining for adults and kids alike. Visitors can see the one-of-a-kind “tea-chute”, where smuggled tea was hidden from prying eyes and children will love discovering the many secrets of the house while completing puzzles to become a “certified smuggler”!
The harbour itself has a rich and interesting history, which can be discovered at the Eyemouth Museum.
A beautiful tapestry is on display here, crafted by local artists to express the loss and social impact felt after The Great Disaster of 1881, which saw the loss of 189 fisherman to a hurricane just a mile or so from the harbour. The tapestry is displayed alongside many other interesting artefacts and stories from throughout the town.
These days, the harbour and its surroundings retain their status as a haven on the coast. Visitors will be charmed by the traditional Scottish architecture, and the array of colourful fishing boats is enough to tempt any budding photographer.
There are several paths leading up and along the coast that offer walkers outstanding vistas across the sea, and, for families, the Smugglers’ Trail is definitely not to be missed. The circular walk begins and ends at Gunsgreen House and takes you past hidden coves and beaches favoured by the sneaky “free-traders”.
Kirstin Ross, a Coastal Community Development Officer in Berwickshire, admits that it is hard to sum up all the wonderful things about Eyemouth in just a few lines.
“Eyemouth Harbour is the heart of the charming fishing town that lands some of Scotland’s best seafood,” she says. “A visit to our award-winning fish & chip shops is a must! You will also discover an abundance of wildlife at St Abb’s Head National Nature Reserve or by snorkelling in the Berwickshire Marine Reserve.
“The town has a fascinating smuggling history to be uncovered at Gunsgreen House while, the beach and Berwickshire Coastal Path will always be a favourite due to the stunning surrounding scenery.”
Eyemouth harbour has a classic seaside atmosphere, but avoids the saccharine stereotype of beachside arcades. This is a town with great pride in its fishing heritage and locals are keen to share the town’s story.
Sitting at the water’s edge with a hot parcel of fish and chips on your lap, looking out across the fishing boats, you feel very much a part of Eyemouth’s rich history.
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