What is Packrafting?
A packraft is a lightweight, portable craft that packs down small enough to be carried in a rucksack until you reach a waterway, such as a loch or river.
The dinghy is inflated with a special air bag for relatively speedy transition from walking to paddling mode.
Andy Toop, the owner of Back Country outdoor store in Aviemore, was an early adopter of the packraft in Scotland. He reports that sales and hires of his stock of Alpacka Rafts has been steadily increasing in recent years.
“Scotland is the perfect place for packrafting because of our landscape,” Andy says. “Packrafts make it easier to travel on foot or by bike and across water.”
The scramble to the top continues to reveal yet more breathtaking views, which by now take in a coastline of long-legged sea lochs, as well as increasing numbers of distant peaks and myriad dazzling lochans.
Choosing an overnight camp spot sheltered from a westerly wind, we set up our tents, eat dinner and then take our luxury item – whisky, of course! – to a stone slab seat at 731m (2398ft) for a midsummer weekend sunset.
Before we turn in we mumble something about a “nice tailwind tomorrow”. But Scotland is not known for settled weather and the next morning the wind has turned. I still have a sore arm and we agree to review the plan for a return paddle at the loch shore.
The descent of Suilven is accompanied by more mesmerising views of Stac Pollaidh and we soon find the rafts. White horses show the strength of wind along Loch Veyatie – and it is in entirely the wrong direction for us.
Our choice is to weave a route further west, paddling lochans with a tailwind and walking in between, or to pack up the rafts and hike back east. The former option has an uncertain outcome without motorised transport from Lochinver to Elphin, so we go for the latter.
It is a challenging walk on trackless terrain and the same larger-than-life mountain view accompanies us – each time I look over my shoulder to see how far we have walked, Suilven has only slowly reduced in height.
Yet there are compensations. It is an amazing privilege to be walking in a fabulously remote area and where few others have stepped before.
Finally, we can see in the distance the small houses of Elphin. As they grow, my legs regain energy and I walk with greater purpose. It feels as if we have enjoyed an adventure like no one else’s that summer solstice.