How To Do It
There are regular trains to and from Glasgow Central to connect with ferries at Ardrossan Harbour, bound for Brodick. See www.scotrail.co.uk.
A Five Ferries ticket that covers the cycle route is valid for five days and costs £14.70 for cyclist and a bike. There is no need to book ahead if you do not have a motorised vehicle. If you plan to travel as a group of cyclists, contact Calmac before you travel. See www.calmac.co.uk
The first ferry to Brodick, with train connection from Glasgow, leaves at 8.20am in the summer. Check timetables for the last ferry from Rothesay to Wemyss Bay, depending on whether you will get the train from there to Glasgow or from Ardrossan to Glasgow.
The village sits on the shore of yet another stunning sea channel, the Kyles of Bute.
This stretch of the tour is the most challenging, with more than 549m (1800ft) of climbing over 32km (20 miles). After a refreshment stop, I am climbing again on the A8003 to the second highest point of the day.
The road travels into a craggy landscape of forested slopes and rocky outcrops above the shores of the Kyles and I feel a draw to pull off to the side of the road many times to enjoy the superb vistas over water and wild land – and also catch my breath.
A mile or so past the most northerly end of the sea channel, the route turns south again on to the A866 in the direction of Colintraive and the fourth ferry of the day. It’s only a five-minute sailing to reach Rhubodach, on the Isle of Bute. The island scenery is also divided by the Highland Boundary Line.
By now my legs are feeling the combination of miles and hills and I rejoice in a tailwind for the ride of 13.6km (8.5 miles) along the eastern coast to Rothesay amid a scenery of forest, moorland and sandy shores. Rothesay is the main island town and has been a popular holiday destination for Scots since Victorian times. Even on a weekday it’s busy.
There is plenty to see and do and I wish I had allowed more time on the island, but I need to make the fifth and final sea crossing from Rothesay to Wemyss Bay, then the last 32km (20-mile) cycle leg to Ardrossan.
The ferry journey is 35 minutes and while I have travelled far by boat and bicycle I still enjoy the sea crossing, especially as the sea views sparkle in late afternoon sunshine. Welcoming another tail wind, I push hard on the ride south along the main coast road and reach the start-finish. On reflection, a two-day ride of the route would have allowed me to visit more attractions but a cheeky mid-week day away from my desk was all I had time for, and was enough to blow away the cobwebs.