Big Adventure
Even in perfect conditions, a steely temperament is needed to summit the formidable ridge on Skye
Fiona Russell faces her fears to summit peaks on Skye’s formidable Cuillin
WALKING up the westerly slope of Sgurr na Banachdich in the mighty Cuillin on the Isle of Skye, my husband Gordon comments on my up-beat chatter and seeming confidence.
He is surprised because for years I’ve been talking about my fear of returning to this infamous ridge.
In 2018, I was left terrified after climbing one of the most revered – and feared – UK summits, the Inaccessible Pinnacle, on the mountain Sgùrr Dearg.
I’d told Gordon that I never wanted to push myself that far out of my emotional comfort zone again.
Yet, here we are, ascending to the same ridge, which is such a tangled and complex architecture of rocks that most people hire a guide.
I’m fortunate to have an experienced climber for a husband and he has offered to lead me and our friend David for the day.
But, still, I’m surprised by my own optimistic determination as we depart the roadside at Glen Brittle Youth Hostel heading for the first summit of the day.
What is driving me on is the desire to finish a round of Munros, the Scottish mountains with a summit of at least 914m (3000ft).
At this point my tally is 265 out of 282, but to complete – or to “compleat” to use the archaic word associated with Munro finishes – I need to reach the 11 Munro summits strung along the Cuillin.
In addition, I am hoping I’ve recently gained enough experience of walking other ridges to be able to suppress my life-long phobia of heights.
Our objective is the six most northerly Munros over a distance of almost four miles.
While many walkers will “bag” these Munros in smaller groups, the six looked possible because the weather was bright and clear and we were feeling fit. However, it will be the section between two groups of three Munros – via a notoriously testing traverse of high scrambles and steep drops – that we know will prove the most challenging.
Amazingly though, the first Munro, Sgurr na Banachdich, passes with only a little emotional discomfort, mainly as I peer dubiously over the steepsided, scree-filled corrie, Coir’ nan Eich.
From the summit at 965m (3166ft) and with mixed emotions, I take in the spectacularly beautiful – but scarily jagged peaks – of the ridge landscape, which was created 60 million years ago by volcanic lava.
I repeatedly battle feelings of rising panic and manage to enjoy a chat with David about life, work and families. In contrast to my fears, he is relishing the height and vistas that surround us.
Both Sgurr a’ghreadaidh and Sgurr a’mhadaidh, our next two Munros, require some scrambling.
It seems strange that if the short but precipitous sections of grippy gabbro rock were at ground level, I would climb them with no worries. Instead, I fret vocally as the high ridge-line of natural obstacles continues.
Spurs, towers, over-hanging drops, exposed gullies and steep scree descents come one after the other until our route blurs into one hectic and confusing assault on my emotions.
For the descent from Sgurr a’mhadaidh and on to the next long traverse, Gordon decides to use the rope, harnesses and belays we are carrying.
I’m thankful for his expertise and he, in turn, is grateful for the detailed route instructions of the Cicerone guidebook, Skye’s Cuillin Traverse by mountain guide Adrian Trendall.
Then, suddenly, my nerve fails. Somewhere between the west top and main summit of Bidein Druim nan Ramh, I freeze with fear.