Ghosts And Legends Lingering
Experience the spiritual atmosphere of the four Great Borders Abbeys
THE four Great Borders Abbeys of Melrose, Kelso, Jedburgh and Dryburgh are a testament to the Christian monks who journeyed from Europe, spreading the word of their faith.
All founded in the 12th and 13th centuries, this cluster of exquisite buildings they left behind have been revered by visitors the world over.
It is possible to visit the four abbeys in a whirlwind day trip, but in order to explore all that is on offer in the Borders towns where they’re found, a few days is advised.
The abbeys are looked after by Historic Environment Scotland, where Adrian Cox is the senior cultural resources advisor.
“The abbeys are individually hugely important, and as a group their significance is increased,” Adrian says. “Each abbey contributes greatly to an understanding of monastic life.”
You can wander around the grounds of the abbeys, with Melrose the best preserved of the four. It was founded in 1136 by Cistercian monks at the request of David I of Scotland.
The heart of Robert the Bruce is believed to be buried in the chapter house – his ghost is even said to linger here – and the Commendator’s House Museum holds a rich collection of medieval objects.
“Melrose Abbey not only displays magnificent architecture,” Adrian says, “but is also the place where the Chronicle of Melrose was composed, providing important historical evidence.”
Stranger tales from the abbey’s history also include stories of vampire monks – and even a wizard. You can find out more on the audio tour.
Kelso Abbey also boasts exceptional architecture – one of Scotland’s wealthiest religious houses, it suffered the wrath of Henry VIII in the 1540s, leaving it in ruin.
After you’ve wandered around the site, don’t forget to pop into The Cream Chimneys across the road to fuel up on coffee and home-baking before your next abbey trip!
Jedburgh Abbey combines an unusual mix of Gothic and Romanesque architecture, built over 70 years.
Visit the nave where Alexander III was married in 1285 – according to legend, a ghost appeared at the ceremony, foretelling the king’s death. Alexander died less than a year later in a fall from his horse.
You can climb to the walkways of Jedburgh’s chapter house to get a bird’s-eye view of the dormitories, too.
The last – but by no means least – on your tour of the
Borders’ Great Abbeys is Dryburgh. Despite three fires and four attacks over the centuries, it is remarkably intact.
In the chapter house there is even original paintwork dating back to the abbey’s construction in 1150.
“Look out for the important graves at Dryburgh,” Adrian says, “including that of Sir Walter Scott.”
As you explore, keep an eye out for the abbey’s resident ghost, inexplicably called “Fat Lips”. A woman who stayed here in the 18th century claimed that Fat Lips, a little man in iron boots, tidied her cell for her.
Whether you catch a glimpse of the benevolent spirits that still linger in the abbeys or not, a visit to the majestic Borders Abbeys is a spiritual and humbling experience.
“The Lips” abbey’s resident spirit is Fat