Peace And Tranquillity
Experience a unique blend of Scottish and Tibetan culture at the Buddhist monastery tucked away in a quiet corner of the country
IT’S one of Scotland’s most unlikely holy places, but followers of Buddhism have built a little corner of Tibet in deepest Dumfries and Galloway. The Kagyu Samye Ling monastery has flourished for more than half a century among the moorland, hill farms and great stretches of emptiness that make up Eskdalemuir.
The monastery boasts the largest Buddhist temple in western Europe, complete with ornate red and gold decorations, golden statues of Buddha, a peace garden and a lake.
It’s a place of prayer and contemplation for around 60 monks, nuns and volunteers who have made their home at the centre. But it also welcomes thousands of visitors every year.
The monastery runs regular workshops and retreats, guiding participants in tranquil topics such as yoga and mindfulness – concepts which must have seemed quite alien to the public when the first followers arrived in 1967 but are now part of our language, thanks in part to the trail blazed by Samye Ling.
Guests are welcome to drop in for the day – to join in with the activities of the monastery, or simply to take a breather from hectic lives outside the complex’s walls.
Admission is free and members of the public can visit the temple, stroll around the peace garden and explore the grounds. There’s a shop and cafe, too.
But remember, this is no ordinary “attraction”. It’s a religious centre and guests are asked not to bring things like alcohol or cigarettes – including e-cigarettes. And pets aren’t allowed in case they disturb the local wildlife.
You’ll have to remove your shoes before entering the temple or dining area, too, so it might be an idea to wear footwear that slips on and off easily, or to bring along thick socks or slippers.
In addition to offering instruction in Buddhist
philosophy and meditation, Kagyu Samye Ling exists as a centre for the preservation of Tibetan religion, culture, medicine, art, architecture and handicrafts.
And it’s this unique blend of Scottish and Tibetan culture that makes the place so special. There’s even a Samye Ling tartan, its five colours said to represent the five elements of earth, air, fire, water and space in perfect harmony.
Visitors can stay overnight – in single or twin rooms, or in dormitories – for as little as £35 a night, providing they’re over the age of 16.
Don’t expect five-star luxury, though – reviews describe basic accommodation and evening meals of soup with bread and jam. Guests are encouraged to help out with chores, such as cleaning or kitchen duties.
But the superior twin rooms do boast en-suite toilets and showers, complete with wifi.
And whatever your budget, or motivation, it promises to be a stay unlike anything you’ve sampled elsewhere.
Kagyu Samye Ling was the first Tibetan monastery to be constructed in the west. Its founders, Chögyam Trungpa Rinpoche and Akong Tulku Rinpoche, left Tibet as refugees and found sanctuary on the banks of the River Esk, about 25km (15 miles) from Lockerbie.
The name, Samye Ling, means “the place beyond conception”. Kagyu refers to the Karma Kagyu lineage of Tibetan Buddhism practised at the centre.
Leonard Cohen, Richard Gere and Billy Connolly are among the stars who have stayed there. David Bowie was also a friend of the founders, and it’s said he toyed with the idea of becoming a monk, before he was persuaded his future lay elsewhere.
The monastery has a number of special events planned this year. In May it will host the third UK Kagyu Monlam – a gathering with a focus on prayers for peace.
And in October, the centre marks the anniversary of the death of founder Akong Rinpoche with a seven-day meditation practice retreat.