Seaside And The City
Dip a toe into quirky, chilled Portobello – the best of both worlds
PORTOBELLO is where Edinburgh goes to let its hair down. If the capital’s image leans a little to the staid side – a city of finance and governance and buttoned-up propriety – Portobello is its carefree little cousin, greeting each day with a breeze at her back and a lopsided smile.
The seaside suburb is just a short bus ride from the city centre, but it has a character all its own.
There’s an award-winning sandy beach that seems to stretch on forever. There are amusement arcades, ice-cream parlours and side streets alive with independent traders.
But there’s also a relaxed, laid-back attitude that makes it the perfect place for sunbathers, beachcombers, day-trippers, dog walkers or anyone who fancies kicking back and soaking up some good old-fashioned Scottish seaside escapism.
Portobello was a town in its own right until 1896 and it still retains much of that free spirit.
A former brick-making centre, it became popular as a seaside resort in the Victorian and Edwardian eras. Visitors used to flock in their droves from Glasgow and Edinburgh to take the sea air along the promenade and the now-demolished pleasure pier with its concert pavilion at the end.
Sir Sean Connery was a lifeguard at the old lido before Hollywood came calling. And while it, too, has been bulldozed, “Porty” has held on to that ever-so-slightly faded charm that all the best seaside towns boast.
The Victorian swimming pool is still there, featuring an original Aerotone – the forerunner to the modern hot tub – and Turkish baths.
There’s a conservation area, plenty of parks and green spaces, and a bustling high street.
And, of course, there’s that beach. Two miles of sands with views across to the north side of the Firth of Forth and out towards Inchkeith Island.
Scottish crime writer Emma Christie is a long-time Portobello resident, whose novels The Silent Daughter and Find Her First are set around the town.
For her, it’s Porty’s “endless vibrancy” that keeps calling her back.
“There’s always life down at the beach, whether it’s a day of big blue skies or a cold and windy afternoon,” she says. “Friends and family who visit are always pleasantly surprised to find such a great stretch of sand on my doorstep. And I love standing on the beach, then turning round and seeing Arthur’s Seat on the skyline behind me, knowing the whole city lies in between.”
If you’re brave, you can join the scores of cold water swimmers – there’s almost always someone in the water. It’s shallow too, a good place for kids to find their sea legs.
If you’re more comfortable watching from a distance, you can take refuge in any of the cosy cafés and lively bars along the waterfront, and maybe take in a game of beach volleyball.
If shopping’s your thing, you can take your pick from a range of traders offering souvenirs and items you just can’t find anywhere else.
“There’s a real sense of community in Portobello, and I think the enduring presence of so many independent businesses is testament to that,” says Emma.
“The bookshop is an absolute belter and there are loads of small speciality businesses – so whether you’re looking for bread, cakes, wine, cheese or gifts, you’ll find an amazing selection.”
Portobello also hosts a series of popular events every year, including Art Walk Porty Festival.
The Portobello Kayaking and Sailing Club is based here, along with Rowporty, a community-run coastal rowing club. A group of locals are running a crowdfunder to reopen the old town hall as a community venue.
There’s nowhere quite like it, according to Emma. And for visitors it’s an ideal base for exploring Edinburgh and beyond.
“I love how close it is to the city,” she says. “You can hop on a bus on Princes Street and be strolling along the golden sands of Portobello beach within 20 minutes or so. Likewise, you can wake up beside the sea and enjoy all the benefits of living in a capital city.
“I fell in love with Portobello the first time I visited. I went to see a friend who’d just moved and couldn’t believe she had a beach at the end of her street. I challenge anyone to visit and not feel the same.”