Reflected glory

Cornwall’s beautiful southern coast is a mix of delightful cliff-top walks and pretty harbour towns, finds Jo Lindsay

If Ross Poldark had his cousin’s riches, he might perhaps set his sights upon Trelissick House. With its elegant facade, beautiful gardens, parkland rolling down to the shore and a sublime outlook over the Fal River estuary on Cornwall’s south coast, it is hard to imagine a more romantic setting for the brooding hero of the eponymous television series.

The magnificent gardens, run by the National Trust, and adjacent parkland on the estate’s own peninsula are stunning. Gorious views take in tiny creeks and shingle beaches inviting Swallows and Amazons-type adventures; huge cargo ships laid up in the deep water channel of the estuary – the home until last year of the Windsor Castle currently being transformed into a luxury floating hotel in Leith; and the sail-speckled waters of the Fal, one of the largest natural harbours in the world.

In the distance lies bustling Falmouth, its rich heritage brought alive in the excellent National Maritime Museum Cornwall. From fishing boats and lighthouses to coastguard rescue and the history of the packet ships which carried mail around the world, the striking harbourside museum delivers a fascinating narrative which makes it well worth a visit.

Rick Stein’s Fish sits across the square from the museum, where set menu choices of Thai fish cakes and a classic fish and chips were fresh and moreish. Its tempting menu suggestion of ‘fizz and chips’ sums up a sophisticated but relaxed atmosphere.

Nearby, Hunkydory is a convincing contender for Falmouth’s culinary top spot. It is owned and run by a former special effects make up artist – latterly working on productions such as Phantom of the Opera – who grew tired of both London and the stage, moving to Falmouth and taking over this Arwenack Street restaurant three years ago. Recently renovated to seat almost double the numbers, Hunkydory oozes bonhomie; with attentive staff, delicious food and a lively host, it is just that little bit special.

I enjoyed heavenly plump Cornish mussels with cream, cider