The Scotsman

Thanks for the memories

A new home and recollecti­ons of Clarissa Dickson Wright inspire these recipes from Mary Contini of Valvona & Crolla

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After 20 years living in Inveresk Village, we have upped sticks and moved home. Not to the sunny shores of Italy as you would perhaps expect, but to a small house right on the beach in East Lothian; heaven. Sitting here looking out over the North Sea, the setting sun reflected in the rippling water, I couldn’t ask for anything more. It’s 36 degrees in the south of Italy, and much as I love the sun, I’m content with 15 degrees, bright blue skies and a brisk breeze.

Cockenzie-born and bred, I well remember the fierce winter gales and dramatic waves that pound the shore in January, but with a roaring fire and a good book I’ll weather the storm.

We originally moved to Inveresk on the advice of my dear friend Clarissa Dickson Wright. Practicall­y next-door neighbours, we became great pals; our common interest being delicious food peppered with good craic round the kitchen table, sweetened with the sound of Neapolitan music.

Her roast beef dinners were historic and can never be matched. She had a hearty appetite for the good things in life; lobster, foie gras, caviar. When she became ill and realised she was nearing her last days, she asked me to bring her Christmas order of a 250g tin of Beluga caviar into the Royal Infirmary which she duly scoffed with great gusto, propped up in her hospital bed.

Cheers Clarissa! Wha’ was like you? NAYBODY! n

Mary Contini is a director of Valvona & Crolla, 19 Elm Row, Edinburgh (www.valvonacro­lla.co.uk). Her latest book, Dear Alfonso, A Feast of Love and Laughter will be previewed at the Edinburgh Internatio­nal Book Festival on 26 August, 7:15pm, £12, www.edbookfest.co.uk; @Valvonacro­lla

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 ??  ?? Coq au vin, main; frappe affogato, above
Coq au vin, main; frappe affogato, above

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