The route masters
Climbing’s world cup is coming to Ratho later this month, when the best and most agile will try to ascend its daunting walls, writes instructor and route-setter Neill Busby
The world’s best climbers are set to show off their skills in Edinburgh, with 200 able-bodied and 50 paraclimbers competing in two different events. Whilst Ratho is the biggest indoor climbing arena in Europe, with more routes than any other wall in the UK and a range of grades from F3 to F8c, this is the first time the IFSC World Cup [International Federation of Sport Climbing] has been held here since 2003.
Edinburgh boasts the only international standard competition wall suitable for hosting Lead and Speed in the UK, which are the main disciplines in the IFSC competition, whilst in the para element, only lead climbing takes place.
Lead climbing involves endurance and strategy. Secured by a rope, athletes climb on an overhanging route (one at a time), with a sixminute time limit. The one who gets the highest wins.
The routes are set by professional route-setters, of whom I am one. Route-setting is one of the most important aspects of any climbing wall, blending creative, technical and physical abilities to set quality routes, which is only possible after many years of climbing experience. Many of us are called upon to ‘route set’ competitions worldwide.
Faster and more agile than Spiderman
In speed climbing, athletes race 15 metres high on standard parallel routes. The holds and order are always the same, and the difficulty rating is around F6b/c, a level most recreational climbers could complete. The fastest wins.
As of April 2017, Iranian climber, Reza Alipourshenazandifar holds the men’s 15 metre speed world record with 5.48 seconds, whilst Iuliia Kaplina from Russia holds the women’s record with 7.46 seconds.
This year marks the first time the Paracup will be held in conjunction with an IFSC World Cup, and the first time one has been held in Scotland. There is a qualification round, with typically two climbs, followed by a final round of one climb.
With 10 climbing categories for both men and women – men’s and women’s AU-1 (arm amputee); men’s and women’s AU-2 (forearm amputee); men’s and women’s visually impaired B1, B2 and B3; men’s and women’s AL-1 (seated) and AL-2; men’s and women’s RP1, RP2 and RP3, most categories will not have experienced the climbing wall.
However, visually impaired athletes ‘preview’ all the routes beforehand, so they have an idea where the holds are and in this category coaches may guide their athletes from the ground. Some coaches will use a headset and it truly is an impressive interaction to watch. Watch out for Justin Salas from America, who describes himself not as a blind climber but as “a climber who happens to be blind”.
Scottish paraclimber, Keith Lynch
Keith Lynch, a 41-year-old paraclimber from Scotland, who is on the GB Development team, will also be competing.
Keith had taken up skydiving to raise funds for Cancer Research after the death of his mother from the disease and then became hooked on the sport. However following complications from a skydiving accident in 2010, he ended up losing his lower right leg in January 2013, becoming a lower limb (AL2) amputee (right-leg, below knee). Despite this however, and with the encouragement of a friend and coach, Dave Brown, he took up climbing and quickly reached competition level.
His first event was the Scottish edition of the Paraclimbing series in 2014, which took place at Ratho, and which he went on to win in 2016. This is amazing considering the short time he has been involved in para sports.
For many climbers, this aspect will almost be unknown and to non-climbers, the thought is baffling as climbing without a disability seems hard enough. Hopefully we will show that the impossible is possible, no matter what the disability is.
Ultimately by hosting the world cup, Ratho is hoping that not only will it raise awareness and get more people interested in climbing but we’re really proud to be showcasing the amazing facilities on offer, including the fantastic Clip ‘n’ Climb sessions and all the various courses we run from those designed for children and paraclimbers to women only classes. Sports climbing will be part of the Olympics in Tokyo in 2020 so this will give people a taster of what to expect.
Sports climbing will be part of the Olympics in Tokyo in 2020 so this will give people a taster of what to expect
To book tickets to the IFSC World Cup visit: www.eica-ratho.co.uk/climbingworld-cup