Cape syrah used to just ape Aussie reds, but no longer
Syrah is the grape of the moment. Despite being planted since the 17th century, it has only recently risen to fame in the last 25 vintages.
Now covering more than 10.4 per cent of Cape plantings, it is still not the widest planted (cabernet sauvignon still far outstrips it) – but back in 1995, it was just 1 per cent, so it has come a long way fast.
Often labelled as shiraz, this harks back to the Cape winegrowers’ past desire to match Australia. In the last decade, however, winemakers have scaled back from big blockbuster shiraz styles and focused more on smoky peppery French Rhône-like syrahs, particularly in newer regions like Swartland.
Under£10
Cederberg: Waitrose Foundation Shiraz 2016 Cederberg
This remote landlocked Cederberg winery near Clanwilliam make superb shiraz from grapes grown at over 1,000 metres altitude on sandstone and granite soils. The result is a juicy, fresh, moreish style, gently oaked, very refined for the price. Money from each bottle sold supports community projects for farm workers.
£8.99, Waitrose
Franschhoek: Porcupine Ridge Syrah Viognier 2015 Everyday easy-drinking shiraz made by Marc Kent’s team at Boekenhoutskloof estate. Note the dash of white viognier to lift aromas, a technique used in the Rhône – but this is very Aussie in style. Good value under £6. £6.99/£9.99, Majestic Wine; £5.99, reduced from £7.99, Waitrose; £7, Sainsbury’s Western Cape: Bastions V Shiraz 2016
A fruit forward ripe shiraz with rich damson and black cherry which will definitely appeal to anyone who likes ripe, sweet, soft New World reds. What it lacks in refinement it makes up for in voluptuousness.
£9.99, Virgin Wines
Under £15
Stellenbosch: De Morgenzon DMZ Syrah 2014
Carl van de Merwe makes a rich, mouthfilling, spicy, peppery syrah more Aussielike than Rhône-like with its sweet fruits and heavy weight. £12, Great Grog, Lockett Bros; £8.50 for 2013, The Wine Society
Stellenbosch: Glenelly Glass Collection Syrah 2014
This is a restrained syrah with herby, light spice and plum notes, very smoky undertones, fine tannins. It reminded me of Crozes Hermitage.
£12.80, Great Grog
Paarl: Fairview Shiraz 2013
The Back family have been experimenting with shiraz in Paarl since the 1960s. Charles Back’s particular passion is Rhône grapes; he makes a fruit forward soft wine, commercial in style, slightly lacking in refinement, a big bold red – but an easy quaffer.
£12-13, Fine Wine Musselburgh
£15-£20
Swartland: Intellego Syrah 2015
The freshest Rhônelike syrah in our tasting from Jurgen Gouws of Lammershoek. The key is biodynamically-farmed old unirrigated bush vines grown on decomposed granite. Wonderful peppery notes, still youthful.
£17.50, Oddbins
Franschhoek: Topiary Shiraz 2014
Burgundian Philippe Colin and his sommelier partner
Serge Jaczynski farm 20 hectares in Franschhoek valley to make this perfumed, complex, but hefty shiraz. £17.70, Great Grog; Lockett Bros
Cape Aguilhas: Strandveld Vineyards Syrah 2015
From Cape’s windiest and southernmost vineyard. The strong sea breezes ensure yields are small and fruit is concentrated. A very attractive refined syrah with bitter chocolate and pepper notes.
£17, Marks & Spencer
Over £20
Swartland: Boekenhoutskloof Syrah 2015 Head and shoulders above the pack qualitywise – hence the price. This is Marc Kent’s first Swartland-only syrah with spice, liquorice, floral and clove aromas, velvet smooth tannins and elegance – superb and will improve in bottle. £38.99, Selfridges; Waitrose; Harvey Nichols; Valhalla’s Goat, Glasgow; St Andrews Wine
Greyton: Lismore Syrah 2016
Only the third vintage from Californian Samantha O’keefe in remote Greyton. Such delicacy with crisp, poised fruit – like her 2015, this has 50 per cent Elgin fruit, but is not quite as fleshy with firmer tannins; needs time in bottle.
£29, Oddbins
Stellenbosch: Craven Faure Vineyard Syrah 2016 The rocky Faure vineyard gives very floral, white pepper, fresh high acid styles. It’s quite light, but beautifully refined. Still young, needs time. £21.50, Berry Bros & Rudd, www.bbr.com
Stellenbosch: Kevin Arnold Nadine Shiraz 2013
An impressive effort from Waterford Estate; benefiting from bottle maturity. Labelled as shiraz due to its fleshy ripeness and power, but it has smoky peppery Rhône-like undertones. Very good. £24, Woodwinters; www.winedirect.co.uk