Australia is ready to benefit from shortfalls elsewhere
Whilst European wine regions are reeling from the effects of a wretched 2017 vintage, one New World wine country is hoping to fill the gap on our wine shelves.
Australia is one of the few countries worldwide to have recorded its largest harvest for years in 2017. Chile and Argentina have had a series of small harvests, South Africa is in drought and California’s wine crop was affected by rampant fires.
Now with global wine production at a 56-year-low, Australia is set to cash in. My prediction is that we will start to see an influx of interesting new Australian wines made by boutique wineries, which have not been available recently in the UK, previously squeezed out by other New World or European competitors.
White Margaret River, Western Australia: Lenton Brae Southside Margaret River Chardonnay 2015
A new find from a little known Wilyabrup winery run by the Tomlinsons. A winning combination of sleek, juicy, citric fruits and fleshy, ripe, zesty palate – good value too. £14.95, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com
Adelaide Hills, South Australia: Shaw & Smith Sauvignon Blanc 2017
Softer and richer sauvignon blanc than Loire or Bordeaux, with less pungency than New Zealand – but with a floral bouquet, limey fruit palate and soft leesy finish. £16.99, Henderson Wines; Luvians
Clare Valley, South Australia: Mount Horrocks Watervale Riesling 2017
From a single vineyard north east of Clare with red soil over limestone. Beautifully sleek riesling, balanced with citric, limey core, honed with razorsharp acidity; gentle honeyed notes. Very good. £21.99, Fine Wine Musselburgh
Frankland River, Western Australia: Larry Cherubino Laissez Faire Fiano 2016
This small batch Australianstyle fiano is a supercharged rich, ripe version of the grape with exuberant quince and mango flavours. Fresh and limey on the palate – a very good effort. £17.95, Berry Bros & Rudd, www.bbr.com; St Andrews Wine Co
Adelaide Hills, S Australia: BK Wines Swaby Chardonnay 2013
Kiwis Brendon and Kirstyn Keys make single vineyard wines from a tiny winery in Piccadilly Valley bushlands east of Adelaide. This racy, minerally chardonnay would suit Burgundy lovers. £35, www.swig.co.uk
Red SE Australia: Down The Lane Shiraz Tempranillo 2016 de Bortoli
If you are a fan of easy-going Aussie shiraz or rioja you will love this blend. Tempranillo, Rioja’s grape, adds a cherry fruited sweetness. Soft smooth – a limited edition for Aldi. £6.99, Aldi
Yarra Valley, Victoria: Giant Steps Pinot Noir 2016
Yarra pinot noirs are some of Australia’s finest. A blend of five Yarra vineyards, this open vat fermented pinot noir was aged for 11 months in French oak (25 per cent new) – creating rich cherry, forest fruit, luscious rounded fruits and cocoa undertones. £19.99, Henderson Wines
Grampians, Victoria: Fallen Giants Shiraz 2014
With its scented bouquet, racy acidity, peppery, herby, smoky palate, this is much more Rhône-like than Australian. £18.95, www.bbr.com
Mclaren Vale, South Australia: Jauma Little Raindrops Grenache 2016
Our tasters adored this new wave crown-capped organic grenache, a grape which works well Down Under. Its fine herby bouquet, smooth texture, delicious juicy mouthwatering savoury character is so enticing – made with no additives by cook/sommelier/ soil chemist James Erskine. £23.50, www.lescaves.co.uk; www.thegoodwineshop.co.uk
Clare Valley, South Australia: Kilikanoon Gsm Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre 2016
A big hit with tasters who loved this smooth, approachable southern Rhône-style blend made by Kevin Mitchell. Herby, smoky undertones, an Aussie match for Côtes du Rhône – ideal for barbecues. £10.99, Waitrose
Riverland, SE Australia: Bill Downie Biodynamic Petit Verdot 2015
In the same way that malbec performs better in Argentina than in France, so Aussie petit verdot outdoes French efforts. It needs to be very ripe; here oozing ripeness, spice and style. £17.50, Cornelius Wines; Valhalla’s Goat; Beets, Leith
Mclaren Vale, South Australia: SC Pannell ‘Dead End’ Tempranillo 2015
An example of Australia’s diversity. Made from Rioja’s famous grape by up-andcoming winemaker Pannell who cut his teeth at Hardys, before branching out on his own. One of the best Aussie tempranillo examples with cherried fruit, vanilla and spice. ■ £19.99 Beets; Fine Wine Co; Noel Young Wines